http://brewwiki.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Jthaworth&feedformat=atomBrewWiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T23:30:43ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.24.2http://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Citra_Hops&diff=14819Citra Hops2016-03-26T15:43:24Z<p>Jthaworth: Updated Format</p>
<hr />
<div>== Characteristics ==<br />
Citra is a Good bittering hop, however, it's best used as an aroma or flavoring hop. Imparts high alpha/oil content but low cohumulone. Adds interesting citrus and tropical fruit character to the beer. Developed by the Hop Breeding Company of Yakima, Washington; released in 2007.[http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
== Specifications == <br />
*Typical Use: Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid: 11 to 13%<br />
*Beta Acids: 3.5 to 4.5%<br />
*Origination: USA<br />
*Characteristics: Citrus, grapefruit, passion fruit<br />
*Use For: Distinctive aroma and flavor<br />
*Hop Stability Index: -<br />
*Styles: American-style Pale Ale, IPA, Double IP<br />
*Similar Hops: -<br />
*Commercial Examples: Stone Brewing - <br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
== External Links == <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Citra_Hops&diff=14818Citra Hops2016-03-26T15:41:13Z<p>Jthaworth: Update format</p>
<hr />
<div>== Citra Hops ==<br />
=== Characteristics ===<br />
Citra is a Good bittering hop, however, it's best used as an aroma or flavoring hop. Imparts high alpha/oil content but low cohumulone. Adds interesting citrus and tropical fruit character to the beer. Developed by the Hop Breeding Company of Yakima, Washington; released in 2007.[http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
=== Specifications === <br />
*Typical Use: Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid: 11 to 13%<br />
*Beta Acids: 3.5 to 4.5%<br />
*Origination: USA<br />
*Characteristics: Citrus, grapefruit, passion fruit<br />
*Use For: Distinctive aroma and flavor<br />
*Hop Stability Index: -<br />
*Styles: American-style Pale Ale, IPA, Double IP<br />
*Similar Hops: -<br />
*Commercial Examples: Stone Brewing - <br />
<br />
=== See Also ===<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
=== External Links === <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Citra_Hops&diff=14817Citra Hops2016-03-26T15:28:47Z<p>Jthaworth: Added information from BeerSmith</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Citra Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Citra is a Good bittering hop, however, it's best used as an aroma or flavoring hop. Imparts high alpha/oil content but low cohumulone. Adds interesting citrus and tropical fruit character to the beer. Developed by the Hop Breeding Company of Yakima, Washington; released in 2007.[http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use: Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid: 11 to 13%<br />
*Beta Acids: 3.5 to 4.5%<br />
*Origination: USA<br />
*Characteristics: Citrus, grapefruit, passion fruit<br />
*Use For: Distinctive aroma and flavor<br />
*Hop Stability Index: -<br />
*Styles: American-style Pale Ale, IPA, Double IP<br />
*Similar Hops: -<br />
*Commercial Examples: Stone Brewing - <br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
==External Links== <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Citra_Hops&diff=14816Citra Hops2016-03-26T15:25:05Z<p>Jthaworth: Created base content</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Citra Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Citra is a Good bittering hop, however, it's best used as an aroma or flavoring hop. Developed by the Hop Breeding Company of Yakima, Washington; released in 2007.[http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use: Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid: 11 to 13%<br />
*Beta Acids: 3.5 to 4.5%<br />
*Origination: USA<br />
*Characteristics: Citrus, grapefruit, passion fruit<br />
*Use For: Distinctive aroma and flavor<br />
*Hop Stability Index: -<br />
*Styles: American-style Pale Ale, IPA, Double IP<br />
*Similar Hops: -<br />
*Commercial Examples: Stone Brewing - <br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
==External Links== <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Hops&diff=14815Hops2016-03-26T15:11:56Z<p>Jthaworth: /* Bittering Oils */ Improved clarity of resins and oils</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__'''Hops''' provide bitterness to balance the sweetness of [[Malt]] when making beer, adds flavoring oils and aromas, and also helps to stabilize and preserve beer. Hops used in brewing comes from the flowers of a plant called ''Humulus lupulus''. The hop plant is a perrenial spiraling vine that requires most soil. The flowers of the hops, called ''cones'' are dried before use. These flowers are usually green in color with yellow ''lupulin'' glands between the petals that provide many of the oils.<br />
<br />
===Types of Hops===<br />
* '''Loose or Leaf Hops''' - Hops in its most natural form. Leaf hops float, provide a nice filter bed when siphoning, and are excellent when fresh. Unfortunately these hops are also most susceptible to exposure to air and oxidization, which means their quality will decline more rapidly unless vacuum sealed in a oxygen barrier bag.<br />
* '''Plug Hops''' - Dried and compressed hop cones. When hydrated these are essentially the same as whole hops, but will store better. <br />
* '''Pellet Hops''' - Perhaps the most widely available to the home brewer, these hops are dried, chopped and compressed into tiny pellets. They store well, and are easy to measure in small quantities. The chopping and compressing can release some of the lupulin glands to burst losing some aromatic oils.<br />
<br />
===Measuring Bitterness===<br />
Hop bitterness is measured in [[International Bitterness Units]] or ''IBU's''. One IBU is one part per million of ''isohumulone'' which is a bittering (alpha) acid. IBU's can be estimated when brewing a beer by several different formulas, the most popular of which are the ''Tinseth'', ''Rager'' and ''Garetz'' formulas. IBU's for light beers are generally in the 10-20 range, while dark flavorful beers such as stouts may have an IBU as high as 50. Some barley wines have IBU values of 100 or more to offset the extreme malty sweetness of the beer. See the [[Beer Styles]] BJCP guide for some typical IBU ranges for different styles of beer.<br />
<br />
===Bittering Resins and Oils===<br />
Bittiness in beer is provided by resins released by the hops. The battering resins of the hops are isomerized (rearranged) during the boil. Insoluable alpha acids (&alpha;-acids) are isomerized by the boil into more soluble and stable alpha acids. As the boil time increases, the bitterness released also increases. These alpha acids provide the majority of the bitterness in finished beer, as estimated by the Alpha Acid Units (AAUs) or Homebrew Bitterness Units (HBU's). A second resin called beta acid also provides some bitterness. The amount of bettering coming from beta acids depend on the degree of oxidation, or, how much oxygen the hops have been exposed to over time.<br />
<br />
Hop oil compounds provide flavor, aroma and preservative qualities. They are soluble in water and easily boiled off. Dry hopping will allow one to impart these properties without the risk of boiling-them-off.<br />
<br />
===Hops Storage===<br />
The alpha and beta acids in hops are both vulnerable to oxidation which will decrease their effectiveness. Hops will degrade faster at temperatures above freezing. Hops should be refrigerated in your freezer, and sealed in an airtight container (ideally vacuum packed foil oxygen barrier container) to prevent oxidation.<br />
<br />
===Hops Usage===<br />
Hops can be used at many stages in the brewing process:<br />
* '''Boil Hops''' - Hops used during the main boil to add bitterness and flavor to the beer.<br />
* '''Aroma Hops''' - Hops added at the end of the boil to release aroma. Many aromatic oils in hops will boil off after a period of time, so hops added at the end of the boil maintain many aromatic qualities.<br />
* '''Dry Hops''' - Hops added in the secondary fermentation, usually a day or two before bottling, primarily for aroma.<br />
* '''Mash Hops''' - Hops added to the mash tun, effectively get steeped and can add some flavor though they usually contribute little to the bitterness of the beer.<br />
* '''First Wort Hops''' - Hops added to the boiler as the wort is first being sparged. These hops effectively get steeped and then boiled with the main boil. First wort hopping results in a better blending of hops flavor with the wort though it generally reduces hop utilization slightly when compared to traditional boiled hops.<br />
<br />
==Hop Varieties==<br />
* [[Ahtanum Hops]]<br />
* [[Amarillo Hops]]<br />
* [[Apollo Hops]]<br />
* [[Brewers Gold Hops]]<br />
* [[Bravo]]<br />
* [[Cascade Hops]]<br />
* [[Centennial Hops]]<br />
* [[Chinook Hops]]<br />
* [[Citra Hops]]<br />
* [[Cluster]]<br />
* [[Columbus Hops]]<br />
* [[Crystal Hops]]<br />
* [[Cluster]]<br />
* [[Delta]]<br />
* [[Eroica Hops]]<br />
* [[Galena Hops]]<br />
* [[Glacier Hops]]<br />
* [[Horizon Hops]]<br />
* [[Liberty Hops]]<br />
* [[Mount Ranier Hops]]<br />
* [[Nelson Sauvin]]<br />
* [[Nugget Hops]]<br />
* [[Pride of Ringwood]]<br />
* [[Saaz Hops]]<br />
* [[Simcoe Hops]]<br />
* [[Sterling Hops]]<br />
* [[Strisselspalt Hops]]<br />
* [[Styrian Goldings Hops]]<br />
* [[Summit Hops]]<br />
* [[Vanguard Hops]]<br />
* [[Warrior Hops]]<br />
* [[Zeus Hops]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Ingredients]]<br />
* [[International Bitterness Units]]<br />
* [[Technical|Technical Reference]]<br />
* [[Beer Styles]]<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
* [http://www.beersmith.com/hops_table.htm BeerSmith Hops Reference Table]<br />
* [http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/04/25/brewing-hops-10-tips-for-surviving-the-hops-shortage/ Brewing Hops: 10 Tips for Surviving the Hops Crisis]<br />
* [http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html Norm Pyle's Hops FAQ]<br />
* [http://realbeer.com/hops/ Glenn Tinseth's Hop Page]<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[fr:houblon]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahtanum_Hops&diff=14814Ahtanum Hops2016-03-26T14:33:04Z<p>Jthaworth: Added information from BeerSmith</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself. [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use: Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid: 5.7 to 6.3% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies], 4 to 6.5% [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365]<br />
*Beta Acids: 5.0 to 6.5% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
*Origination: USA<br />
*Characteristics: Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Use For: Distinctive aroma<br />
*Hop Stability Index: 30.0% per 6 months<br />
*Styles: American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops: Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples: Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
* [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahtanum_Hops&diff=14813Ahtanum Hops2016-03-26T14:25:50Z<p>Jthaworth: Remove AAU abbreviation</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself. [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use : Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid : 5.7 to 6.3% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies], 4 to 6.5% [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365]<br />
*Beta Acids: 5.0 to 6.5% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
*Origination : USA<br />
*Characteristics : Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Styles : American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops : Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples : Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
* [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Hops&diff=14812Hops2016-03-26T14:23:38Z<p>Jthaworth: Added AAU's to description</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__'''Hops''' provide bitterness to balance the sweetness of [[Malt]] when making beer, adds flavoring oils and aromas, and also helps to stabilize and preserve beer. Hops used in brewing comes from the flowers of a plant called ''Humulus lupulus''. The hop plant is a perrenial spiraling vine that requires most soil. The flowers of the hops, called ''cones'' are dried before use. These flowers are usually green in color with yellow ''lupulin'' glands between the petals that provide many of the oils.<br />
<br />
===Types of Hops===<br />
* '''Loose or Leaf Hops''' - Hops in its most natural form. Leaf hops float, provide a nice filter bed when siphoning, and are excellent when fresh. Unfortunately these hops are also most susceptible to exposure to air and oxidization, which means their quality will decline more rapidly unless vacuum sealed in a oxygen barrier bag.<br />
* '''Plug Hops''' - Dried and compressed hop cones. When hydrated these are essentially the same as whole hops, but will store better. <br />
* '''Pellet Hops''' - Perhaps the most widely available to the home brewer, these hops are dried, chopped and compressed into tiny pellets. They store well, and are easy to measure in small quantities. The chopping and compressing can release some of the lupulin glands to burst losing some aromatic oils.<br />
<br />
===Measuring Bitterness===<br />
Hop bitterness is measured in [[International Bitterness Units]] or ''IBU's''. One IBU is one part per million of ''isohumulone'' which is a bittering (alpha) acid. IBU's can be estimated when brewing a beer by several different formulas, the most popular of which are the ''Tinseth'', ''Rager'' and ''Garetz'' formulas. IBU's for light beers are generally in the 10-20 range, while dark flavorful beers such as stouts may have an IBU as high as 50. Some barley wines have IBU values of 100 or more to offset the extreme malty sweetness of the beer. See the [[Beer Styles]] BJCP guide for some typical IBU ranges for different styles of beer.<br />
<br />
===Bittering Oils===<br />
Bittiness in beer is provided by oils released by the hops. The bittering oils of the hops are isomerized (rearranged) during the boil. Insoluable alpha acids (&alpha;-acids) are isomerized by the boil into more soluble and stable alpha acids. As the boil time increases, the bitterness released also increases. These alpha acids provide the majority of the bitterness in finished beer, as estimated by the Alpha Acid Units (AAUs). A second component called beta acid also provides some bitterness. Additional compounds in hops provide both aroma and preservative qualities.<br />
<br />
===Hops Storage===<br />
The alpha and beta acids in hops are both vulnerable to oxidation which will decrease their effectiveness. Hops will degrade faster at temperatures above freezing. Hops should be refrigerated in your freezer, and sealed in an airtight container (ideally vacuum packed foil oxygen barrier container) to prevent oxidation.<br />
<br />
===Hops Usage===<br />
Hops can be used at many stages in the brewing process:<br />
* '''Boil Hops''' - Hops used during the main boil to add bitterness and flavor to the beer.<br />
* '''Aroma Hops''' - Hops added at the end of the boil to release aroma. Many aromatic oils in hops will boil off after a period of time, so hops added at the end of the boil maintain many aromatic qualities.<br />
* '''Dry Hops''' - Hops added in the secondary fermentation, usually a day or two before bottling, primarily for aroma.<br />
* '''Mash Hops''' - Hops added to the mash tun, effectively get steeped and can add some flavor though they usually contribute little to the bitterness of the beer.<br />
* '''First Wort Hops''' - Hops added to the boiler as the wort is first being sparged. These hops effectively get steeped and then boiled with the main boil. First wort hopping results in a better blending of hops flavor with the wort though it generally reduces hop utilization slightly when compared to traditional boiled hops.<br />
<br />
==Hop Varieties==<br />
* [[Ahtanum Hops]]<br />
* [[Amarillo Hops]]<br />
* [[Apollo Hops]]<br />
* [[Brewers Gold Hops]]<br />
* [[Bravo]]<br />
* [[Cascade Hops]]<br />
* [[Centennial Hops]]<br />
* [[Chinook Hops]]<br />
* [[Citra Hops]]<br />
* [[Cluster]]<br />
* [[Columbus Hops]]<br />
* [[Crystal Hops]]<br />
* [[Cluster]]<br />
* [[Delta]]<br />
* [[Eroica Hops]]<br />
* [[Galena Hops]]<br />
* [[Glacier Hops]]<br />
* [[Horizon Hops]]<br />
* [[Liberty Hops]]<br />
* [[Mount Ranier Hops]]<br />
* [[Nelson Sauvin]]<br />
* [[Nugget Hops]]<br />
* [[Pride of Ringwood]]<br />
* [[Saaz Hops]]<br />
* [[Simcoe Hops]]<br />
* [[Sterling Hops]]<br />
* [[Strisselspalt Hops]]<br />
* [[Styrian Goldings Hops]]<br />
* [[Summit Hops]]<br />
* [[Vanguard Hops]]<br />
* [[Warrior Hops]]<br />
* [[Zeus Hops]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Ingredients]]<br />
* [[International Bitterness Units]]<br />
* [[Technical|Technical Reference]]<br />
* [[Beer Styles]]<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
* [http://www.beersmith.com/hops_table.htm BeerSmith Hops Reference Table]<br />
* [http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/04/25/brewing-hops-10-tips-for-surviving-the-hops-shortage/ Brewing Hops: 10 Tips for Surviving the Hops Crisis]<br />
* [http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html Norm Pyle's Hops FAQ]<br />
* [http://realbeer.com/hops/ Glenn Tinseth's Hop Page]<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[fr:houblon]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Talk:Most_Wanted&diff=14810Talk:Most Wanted2016-03-20T18:33:54Z<p>Jthaworth: Described Error seen for image thumbnails</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Adding Images ==<br />
<br />
The topic "Pictures - Need pictures of all kinds" refers to the the [[Hydrometer]] page for an example of how to include a picture on a page. However, there is an error displaying the thumbnail "Error creating thumbnail: Unable to save thumbnail to destination".<br />
<br />
What is the solution for this error?<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
<br />
Found some technical details from MidiaWiki [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Errors_and_symptoms#Image_Thumbnails_not_working_and.2For_appearing]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewer%27s_Recipe_Database&diff=14809Home Brewer's Recipe Database2016-03-20T17:53:17Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
<hr />
<div>== ''Home Brewer's Recipe Database'' by Les Howarth ==<br />
<br />
The ''Home Brewer's Recipe Database''[http://www.iuniverse.com/Bookstore/BookDetail.aspx?BookId=SKU-000020168] does not contain any recipes but has ingredient information that should permit you to design your own recipes in order to replicate thousands of excellent beers at home. Many of these beers are no longer commercially brewed so the only way to try to taste them now is to brew them yourself. This book also gives an interesting historical insight into the way that some British brewers have adjusted their recipes through the 1990s and can provide you with the justification to break some brewing "rules" with your own creations.<br />
<br />
The ''Home Brewer's Recipe Database'' is available as an inexpensive e-book.<br />
<br />
[[Image:HBRD.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Recipes]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:References]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Friend_Maker_Wheat&diff=14808Friend Maker Wheat2016-03-20T17:52:35Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
<hr />
<div>*BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com<br />
*Recipe: Friend Maker Wheat<br />
*Brewer: Matt Craft<br />
*Style: American Wheat or Rye Beer<br />
*TYPE: All Grain<br />
*Taste: (35.0) <br />
<br />
Recipe Specifications<br />
--------------------------<br />
*Batch Size: 5.00 gal <br />
*Boil Size: 5.72 gal<br />
*Estimated OG: 1.054 SG<br />
*Estimated Color: 8.6 SRM<br />
*Estimated IBU: 9.9 IBU<br />
*Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %<br />
*Boil Time: 60 Minutes<br />
<br />
Ingredients:<br />
------------ <br />
*6.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 61.54 % <br />
*1.75 lb White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 17.95 % <br />
*1.00 lb Caramel Wheat Malt (46.0 SRM) Grain 10.26 % <br />
*1.00 lb Wheat Malt, Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 10.26 % <br />
*0.50 oz Glacier [5.60 %] (60 min) Hops 9.9 IBU <br />
*1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc <br />
<br />
<br />
Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body<br />
Total Grain Weight: 9.75 lb<br />
----------------------------<br />
<br />
*Step Time Name Description Step Temp <br />
*60 min Mash In Add 12.19 qt of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F <br />
*10 min Mash Out Add 5.85 qt of water at 206.2 F 168.0 F <br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
------<br />
I've only made this once, but everyone loved it. The best response outta any of my brews yet.<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Recipes]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Recipes]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Attenuation&diff=14807Attenuation2016-03-20T17:50:48Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==Attenuation==<br />
===How To Improve your Attenuation===<br />
<br />
Those that know me know that I have a knack of brewing outside the box. A few of my beers are under 4% abv, Those I call Starters, They usually have real big flavor and have even won awards, but a disproportionate number of my beers are big beers, 7-8% seems to be a “normal” gravity and very frequently (about 1 out of every 3) make what I call “Century Beers” or beers over 10% abv or over 1.100 OG. <br />
<br />
Why do we even care about attenuation? Attenuation is a measure of how much of the sugar in the wort is converted into alcohol. The lower the attenuation, the more sugars are not fermented and the sweeter the resulting beer though we definitely want to avoid the dreaded cloyingly sweet beer. In a small to normal strength beer fairly big swings in attenuation, while noticeable, are not going to push the beer into what many would consider an undrinkable category. The same percentage change will have a significantly larger impact of a big to monster beer. To get the beer we truly want we must control attenuation to hit a desirable, and targeted, FG.<br />
<br />
These are guidelines, intended only to aide you in your recipe design and brewing process. It is important to see how your system and your procedures react to what I suggest below. We are about to enter the Art of Brewing because where science stops, Art begins.<br />
<br />
When you brew a large number of “Century Beers” it is important to have some concept of how to predict your Final Gravity. The caveats, There are many variables that impact FG, and thus attenuation, (which we will discuss later) and very little is written on how to do this. None of the brewing software packages do this and no literature that I have found really goes into the prediction of FG. I intend to present a common sense approach to predicting FG, especially for big beers.<br />
<br />
As with most things with brewing I am relying on consistency to keep many of the factors the same. Certainly by not being consistent repeatability suffers. Each of us brews on our own system and that system, including the procedures we follow, determines the characteristics of the beer we produce. By maintaining that consistency and altering specific parameters we can manipulate results. Below is a graph from Noonan’s book. <br />
<br />
Every strain of yeast will perform differently, and that yeast will react somewhat differently to different systems, but by graphing our results in a similar fashion we can learn to predict what attenuation we will get under a given set of circumstances. Is it fool-proof? No, but over time you will learn produce beer much closer to what you predict than you do now.<br />
<br />
The first step is to look at your grain bill, or rather just the grain portion of the grain bill, no sugars or extracts as we will address them later.<br />
Let’s assume that these grains give us an estimated 1.080 contribution to our OG. We will also assume that our selected yeast and mash profile will yield an attenuation of 75%. Given this, the contribution the FG contribution would be 1.020, [((1-.75)*(1.080-1))+1]. We could decrease this attenuation by about 10% by raising the mash temp from 149°F to 158°F. This would give us a predicted FG of 1.028, [((1-.65)*(1.080-1))+1] These calculations are based on numbers contained in Noonan’s book.<br />
<br />
This chart is an interpretation of attenuation in an infusion mash from Noonan’s book. With a single infusion mash at 149°F Noonan says in New Brewing Lager Beer an attenuation of 75-80% usually results.<br />
<br />
[[Image:NoonanAttenuationChart.gif]] <br />
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I also find that if I step mash a normal grist (the same 1.080 OG used above), that is one without a lot of carapils, crystal or dark malts, a 146°/156° F step mash gives me about a 10% increase in attenuation. This would give me a 1.013 predicted FG, [((1-.85)*(1.080-1))+1]. I would suggest that you verify this with your own brewing setup.<br />
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One important factor is that as the beers get bigger, your attenuation must improve to keep your beers in balance. Attenuation and fermentability go hand in hand. <br />
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There are four main areas where we can impact our attenuation. The Grain Bill, The Mash, The Yeast, and the Fermentation. By manipulating these portions of our process we can alter the attenuation we get.<br />
<br />
====Grain Bill====<br />
*Grain Bill: Keep highly dextrinous malts such as Carapils, Crystal, and Roasted grains low, keep low fermentable extracts (Laaglanders) low.<br />
*Use Highly Fermentable Sugars: such as corn sugar, table sugar, brown sugar, raw sugar, candi sugar, honey, maple syrup, molasses, etc. These sugars boost alcohol without increasing FG. Estimate your FG without any sugar added.<br />
<br />
====Mash====<br />
*Single Infusion Mash at a low temp (i.e. 149°F): This is the temp where starch is100% soluble and the enzymes have complete access. For that reason it is the minimum temperature that Noonan recommends for a mash. <br />
*Mash longer (up to 2+ hours): It doesn’t necessarily take this long to “convert” the starches to sugars, but by continuing the mash beyond “conversion” some of the non-fermentable complex sugars will be broken down by the enzymes into fermentable sugars resulting in a more fermentable wort.<br />
*Step Mash (i.e. 146°/156°F): This puts the enzymes into their optimum performance temperatures, and usually results in a longer mash. I have gotten up to a 10% boost in attenuation doing this.<br />
*Use a Thinner Mash: A thin mash (>2 quarts/pound) results in a more fermentable mash because the sugars are less concentrated and thus there is less inhibitation on the enzymes. If you are performing a multi-rest mash a thicker mash is better because the enzymes are not denatured as quickly when you step the temperature up. This is because of the lower heat capacity of grain as compared to water.<br />
<br />
====Yeast====<br />
*Yeast Choice: Yeasts are normally chosen because of flavor characteristics for the style of beer to be brewed. Additionally we need to look at attenuation. One key characteristic of yeast is their ability to ferment Maltotriose. Many studies have indicated that this is the primary factor in attenuation. Maltotriose is a trisachride and the second most common sugar in wort (13-19% of fermentables). Most yeast can consume about half the Maltotriose present. Interestingly Lager yeast does a better job of utilizing Maltotriose than does Ale yeast. In general, use a yeast rated for the degree of attenuation that you require.<br />
*Yeast Quantity: Use a Starter, better, use a yeast cake. Per George Fix for an ale, you want to pitch around 0.75 million cells of viable yeast, for every milliliter of wort, for every degree Plato, lagers double that. Under pitching can result in “tired” yeast that is unable to finish the job. It is difficult to over-pitch a Big Beer.<br />
*develops strong yeast during their growth phase allowing them to completely consume all the fermentable sugars. Oxygen is necessary for yeast to produce lipids which act as a growth factor in the growth stage of the fermentation and protect the yeast from alcohol toxicity near the end of the fermentation. Perform this step at the start and at 12-14 hours for very big beers.<br />
*Yeast Nutrients: Now that we have oxygenated the yeast, does the yeast have everything they need to grow and multiply before they start fermentation and alcohol production? Adding yeast nutrients ensures that they do. This may be important, depending on wort composition, to maximize attenuation. <br />
<br />
====Fermentation====<br />
*Ferment Temp: We do not want to ferment at temperature that are optimum for the yeast, we want to ferment at temperatures that are optimum for the beer that we wish to produce. The yeast will be much “happier” at higher temperatures. Too low a temperature will cause the yeast to slow down, go dormant, flocculate out of solution. Near the end of fermentation the character of the beer, esters and phenolics that are characteristic of the beer will have been formed. We can raise the temperature of the wort toward the high end of the band. Danstar Nottingham is “rated” 57° to 70°F for beer production, we would raise the wort temp in this case to approach 70°F to help the yeast through the last few points.<br />
*Ferment Time: A big beer will frequently, not always, drop its last few points over a period of months. That is why we will frequently say “when the beer is ready it will be done”. There are a lot of things that may hinder fermentation especially at the later stages of brewing a big beer. Many of these are issues are addressed here. All I can say is that when all else fails, be patient.<br />
*Rouse the Yeast: Lets try to keep as much yeast in suspension as we can to ferment the remaining sugars, especially with highly flocculent yeast strains. Lacking continuous agitation I like to rouse my yeast 3 times a day. When I get up, when I come home from work, and when I go to bed. <br />
*Supplemental Yeast: A way of restarting a stuck fermentation, or helping out a weakening one is to all an active starter of either the same strain or a different strain of yeast. Since we perform this step frequently when we perceive that the fermentation is in need of help, the alcohol levels are elevated, etc. and so on, we want to pitch active working healthy yeast. Resist the urge to mage the starter wort over 1.060 “so the yeast gets used to the high alcohol levels” because this will actually slow down and/or hurt the yeast culture. For the same reason I do not recommend directly pitching dry yeast. Carefully re-hydrate dry yeast and make a starter, pitch the starter at high krausen, the peak of activity, 12-18 hours after you make it.<br />
*Beano: aka enzyme additions, the “ultimate” solution is to generally be avoided if at all possible. This product breaks down, and continues to break down complex, non-fermentable sugars in your wort into simple fermentable sugars thus increasing attenuation. There is no problem adding enzymes to your mash, just make sure you understand the results you get. But if you are trying to correct a situation such as you mashed too high and you discover this when fermentation stops well before you wanted it to and add it to your “Secondary”, the problem is stopping it. Nuff said!!<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Technical]]<br />
* [[Alcohol By Weight]]<br />
* [[Alcohol By Volume]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Technical]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Strisselspalt_Hops&diff=14806Strisselspalt Hops2016-03-20T17:47:45Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
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<div>'''Origin and Description'''<br />
<br />
Strisselspalt Hops is one of the few varieties from France, and other varieties from the country include Elsasser, Precoce de Bourgogne, and Tardif de Bourgogne. Strisselspalt is a natural variety grown mainly around Stasbourg. <br />
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Strisselspalt is very much an aroma variety with a 1:1 alpha beta ratio and alpha acid content ranging from 3.0%-5.0%. It has a low co-humulone content as well measuring at 20.0%-25.0%. All oils are moderate with the exception of farnesene oil which barely registers. The aroma is described as having a mild pleasant hoppy bouquet. <br />
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Strisselspalt is used around the world, and is sought after for its aromatic qualities. It has helped to shape many of the varying style beers from the French breweries. Its a low yielding plant of medium size cones which are moderately compact. Despite the susceptibility to disease and fungus, Strisselspalt lives on due to the demand of this industry shaping hops variety.<br />
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'''Strisselspalt Hops Usage'''<br />
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Strisselspalt hops is commonly used as as aroma agent in beer. <br />
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'''Strisselspalt Hops Characteristics'''<br />
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Below is a list of characteristics for strisselspalt hops that impact farming, chemistry, transport & trade, beer production, as well as the final character of the finished product.<br />
<br />
Strisselspalt Hops Acid Composition<br />
Alpha Acid Composition 3%-5% <br />
Beta Acid Composition 3%-5.5% <br />
Co-Humulone Composition 20%-25% <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Hops Cone Physical Characteristics'''<br />
Strisselspalt Lupulin Color Dark Yellow <br />
Strisselspalt Cone Size Medium <br />
Strisselspalt Cone Density Moderate to Compact <br />
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<br />
'''Hops Growth, Harvest, and Storage Details'''<br />
Maturity Late Season<br />
Yield for Strisselspalt Hops is Low to Moderate at 1350 - 1800 kg/hectare<br />
Growth Rate Vigorous<br />
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Susceptibility to Disease and Pests Susceptible To:<br />
English Wilt,French Wilt,Downy Mildew,Powdery Mildew;, <br />
Storability Strisselspalt Hops maintains 60%-70% alpha acid comtents after 6 months storage at 20 degrees C <br />
Ease of Harvest Good <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Growth Rate Vigorous'''<br />
<br />
Susceptibility to Disease and Pests Susceptible To:<br />
English Wilt,French Wilt,Downy Mildew,Powdery Mildew;, <br />
Storability Strisselspalt Hops maintains 60%-70% alpha acid comtents after 6 months storage at 20 degrees C <br />
Ease of Harvest Good <br />
<br />
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'''Hops Oil Composition'''<br />
Total Oil Composition 0.6-0.9 mls/100 grams <br />
Myrcene Oil Composition 20%-30% <br />
Humulene Oil Composition 15%-25% <br />
Caryophyllene Oil Composition 8%-10% <br />
Farnesene Oil Composition 0%-1% <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Strisselspalt Hops Substitutes'''<br />
Variety Description <br />
Mount Hood Mt Hood is another descendant of the Hallertau family of Hops and is specifically a cross between a colchicine induced tetraploid Read More... <br />
Crystal Crystal Hops was born in 1983, created in Corvallis Oregon. Drink a Rogue Brutal Bitter, and say colchicine induced tetraploid three times. This type of Hall... Read More... <br />
Hersbrucker Hersbrucker Hops was the gift of the earth from the Hersbruck district in Hallertau Germany. This variety, found from natural selection, has been taking over a... Read More... <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Common Beer Styles for Strisselspalt Hops'''<br />
Beer Style <br />
Lager <br />
Saison <br />
Blonde Ale <br />
Amber Ale <br />
Belgian Ale <br />
Bock <br />
Mai Bock <br />
Golden Ale <br />
Belgian Pale Ale<br />
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Source: http://beerlegends.com/strisselspalt-hops Beer Legends<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Pride_of_Ringwood&diff=14805Pride of Ringwood2016-03-20T17:46:55Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
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<div>Australian variety of hops bred by Carlton and United Breweries, Victoria in 1953.<br />
<br />
Pride of Ringwood will impart a very distinct flavour similar to those found in many of the great commercial Australian beers and home brew recipes.<br />
This variety of hops will provide an Alpha rating of around 10%<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Centennial_Hops&diff=14804Centennial Hops2016-03-20T17:45:55Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
<hr />
<div>== Centennial Hops ==<br />
<br />
Centennial hops were bred in 1974 but not released to the general public until 1990. Centennial are a cross between many varieties. <br />
<br />
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* Typical Use : Both bittering and aroma<br />
* Alpha Acid : 9 to 12% AAU<br />
* Origination : USA<br />
* Commercial Examples : Stone IPA, Racer 5 IPA<br />
* Characteristics : Citrus, leaning toward lemon and pine <br />
* Styles : Most Ale styles. <br />
* Similar Hops : Cascade, Columbus<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahtanum_Hops&diff=14803Ahtanum Hops2016-03-20T17:44:59Z<p>Jthaworth: Added See Also</p>
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<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
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'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself. [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use : Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid : 5.7 to 6.3% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies], 4 to 6.5% [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] AAU<br />
*Beta Acids: 5.0 to 6.5% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
*Origination : USA<br />
*Characteristics : Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Styles : American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops : Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples : Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Hops]]<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
* [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahtanum_Hops&diff=14802Ahtanum Hops2016-03-20T17:39:52Z<p>Jthaworth: Correct external link formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself. [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use : Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid : 5.7 to 6.3% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies], 4 to 6.5% [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] AAU<br />
*Beta Acids: 5.0 to 6.5% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
*Origination : USA<br />
*Characteristics : Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Styles : American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops : Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples : Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
* [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahtanum_Hops&diff=14801Ahtanum Hops2016-03-20T17:37:24Z<p>Jthaworth: Added content found from Midwest suppose, and clarified contribution from Brew365</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself. [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use : Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid : 5.7 to 6.3% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies], 4 to 6.5% [http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] AAU<br />
*Beta Acids: 5.0 to 6.5% [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
*Origination : USA<br />
*Characteristics : Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Styles : American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops : Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples : Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
[http://www.brew365.com/hops_ahtanum.php Brew365] <br />
[http://www.midwestsupplies.com/us-ahtanum-pellet-hops.html Midwest Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Many_people_are_afraid_of_the_very_thou...&diff=14800Many people are afraid of the very thou...2016-03-20T17:04:40Z<p>Jthaworth: Jthaworth moved page Many people are afraid of the very thou... to Wine Making: Title did not appropriately summarize content</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[Wine Making]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Wine_Making&diff=14799Wine Making2016-03-20T17:04:40Z<p>Jthaworth: Jthaworth moved page Many people are afraid of the very thou... to Wine Making: Title did not appropriately summarize content</p>
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<div>Many people are afraid of the very thought of creating homemade wine, assuming the process very tricky for mere mortals. Actually, home made wine is not difficult [http://www.bradyshomebrew.com/ar/making-wine.php <nowiki>making wine</nowiki>] and simply perfected. Uncomplicated, on the other hand, is not to mean quick... expect you'll delay months before choosing the final solution!<br />
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The most challenging stage of winemaking is buying a recipke 1000s are on the net. Every recipe determines precise elements, dimensions, and methods. Nonetheless, each will have a similar sequence:<br />
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1. Put together and mixture every one of the wine making components, with the exception of the candida, inside of a tub or container.<br />
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2. Put Campden drugs to destroy any IncheswildHalf inch yeast infection that produced its distance to a combination, cover the package that has a clear towel, and hold out a day.<br />
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3. Distribute yeast infection within the combine, re also-cover it, and give it time to ferment for five to seven days.<br />
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4. Siphon the ending fluid to a fermentation charter yacht (a goblet container), making all pulp, sediment, and colours. Employ a fermentation capture to seal the charter yacht, then wait 4-six or seven weeks.<br />
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5. Siphon your wine right next ship, close up together with the trap, and let it sit up until the fermentation process has discontinued plus the wines are clear.<br />
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6. Look menu! Some demand Campden capsules to generally be increased just before bottling your wine. Waters unmanned . extra fermentation to cause a rewarding vino.<br />
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7. Siphon the wine into thoroughly clean plastic bottles, and cork them safely and securely.<br />
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Keep wines upright for 3-five days, then on their edges for a few months prior to selecting. Itrrrs likely that good that you'll have a attractive vino that to impress your pals.</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Speise&diff=14798Speise2016-03-20T16:24:50Z<p>Jthaworth: Added categories</p>
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<div>Speise is [[wort]] taken from the main batch of beer before [[yeast]] is pitched and used for [[priming]] later. This method of priming is sometimes incorrectly called [[krausening]] where fermenting wort is taken from the main batch of beer after yeast is pitched. Using speise is a great alternative to krausening because one doesn't have to brew one batch of beer and bottle a different batch the same day. It is best for German beers because it doesn't require the addition of corn sugar and conforms to the [[Reinheitsgebot]].<br />
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== Amount of Speise for Priming ==<br />
The higher the [[Original Gravity]] of the wort that the speise is taken from, the less one needs to prime because higher Original Gravities of wort contain more sugar. The amounts of speise for 5 gallons of beer are listed below and vary in amount of [[carbonation]] desired.<ref name="Brewbible">Snyder, S: ''The Brewmaster's Bible'',page 37. Harper Perrenial, 1997</ref><br />
<br />
Original Gravity of Speise Speise Needed<br />
1.070 1-1.5 quarts<br />
1.060 1.5-1.75 quarts <br />
1.050 1.75-2 quarts<br />
1.040 2-2.5 quarts<br />
1.030 2.5-3 quarts<br />
1.020 3-3.5 quarts<br />
== Using the Speise ==<br />
To use the speise one must take the a portion of the wort before the yeast is pitched and kept refrigerated in a sterile, sealed container until ready to prime with. One then adds the speise to the beer at bottling time.<ref name="Brewbible"/><br />
== References ==<br />
<references/><br />
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[[Category:Processes]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Www.iowabrewersunion.org&diff=14797Www.iowabrewersunion.org2016-03-20T16:23:23Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
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<div>Iowa Brewers Union is a very active home brew club in the city of Des Moines, Iowa. Members come from as far as Pella, Iowa and Ames, Iowa to attend meetings. As of February, 2010 there are approximately 35 paid dues members and about 80 or so on the email list. Typical club meetings have about 30 people in attendance, include a business portion that last about an hour. The rest of the meeting is beverage tasting, talking about beer and general melee. Meetings are held in the basement conference rooms of the Holiday Inn, one block south of Interstate 35 on Merle Hay Road. Meeting times are the 3rd Monday of each month starting at 7pm. [www.iowabrewersunion.org]<br />
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[[Category:Organizations]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Iowa_Brewers_Union&diff=14796Iowa Brewers Union2016-03-20T16:22:34Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
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<div>Iowa Brewers Union is a very active home brew club in the city of Des Moines, Iowa. Members come from as far as Pella, Iowa and Ames, Iowa to attend meetings. As of April, 2011 there are approximately 82 paid dues members and over 100 on the email list. Typical club meetings have about 40 people in attendance, include a business portion that last about an hour. The rest of the meeting is beverage tasting, talking about beer and general melee. Meetings are held at the bar El Bait Shop [www.elbaitshop.com], in downtown Des Moines. Meeting times are the 3rd Monday of each month starting at 7pm. [www.iowabrewersunion.com]<br />
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[[Category:Organizations]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Recirculating_infusion_mash_system_(RIMS)&diff=14795Recirculating infusion mash system (RIMS)2016-03-20T16:20:10Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
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<div>A recirculating infusion mash system or RIMS is a brewing system that uses a pump to circulate the wort through a heater and then return the heated wort to a mash tun. In most RIMS systems, the wort is passed over an electic heating element which is cycled on and off to maintain the mash temperature. While an electric heating element is most commonly used, gas fired heaters can also be used in a RIMS system. Temperature can be controlled manually (physically turning on and off the heating element) while more advanced systems utilize a PID controller to automatically control the temperature of the mash. <br />
<br />
== Benefits of a RIMS system ==<br />
<br />
<br />
A reciculating infusion mash system has four major benefits: <br><br />
- A clearer wort from the constant recirculation of the mash <br><br />
- More precise temperature control of mash throughout the mashing process <br><br />
- A more repeatable mash due to the precise temperature control <br><br />
- Ability to perform complex mash schedules <br><br />
<br />
An example of a RIMS system can be found at [http://www.brewallgrain.com]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Equipment]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=HERMS&diff=14794HERMS2016-03-20T16:19:26Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>A HERMS, or Heat Exchanging Reciculating Mash System, is a brewing system designed to maintain or adjust the temperature of the mash. This is done by pumping the mash liquid from the bottom of the mash tun, through a heat exchanger, and back to the tun again.<br />
[[Image:herms1.JPG|left|thumb]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Equipment]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Fruit&diff=14793Fruit2016-03-20T16:17:20Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>==Introduction==<br />
Adding fruit to beer can enhance a beer or completely change its taste. A balanced fruit beer should not change the basic taste of the original beer – after all if you wanted a powerful and overwhelming fruit taste you might as well brew a cider. Even when done properly, the beer can vary widely in taste and potency.<br />
<br />
==Beer-Friendly Fruit==<br />
There are no fast rules about adding fruit to beer. Fruit flavors can be added fresh, frozen, cooked, dried, smoked, pureed, juiced, zested, and even added as an extract. Also adding fruits in different stages of the brewing process can greatly affect the flavor. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Methods===<br />
* '''Fresh Fruit''' - While fresh fruit sounds good in theory, fresh fruit is VERY dirty and can carry unwanted microbes into your brew. Fruit should be washed thoroughly and then sanitized by boiling, microwaving, or freezing.<br />
* '''Add to Mash''' - Some rare recipes will call for adding fruit to the top of the MLT when sparging. The drawback is that the acids from the fruit could pull unwanted flavors out of your grains.<br />
* '''Boil''' - Only a few fruits are good for boiling. Most fruit should never be boiled and should not be added to primary fermentation. Boiling fruit can destroy it's enzymes and can cause it to release pectin. Citris and citris rinds can sometimes be boiled while berries should never be boiled. Berries particularly can cause beer to get a pickle flavor, which can taste like rotten fruit or bitter olives. Boiling and adding to secondary fermentation can cloud up a brew. An alternative is adding the fruit to the boil is to add after the wort has been removed from heat, scalding the fruit at 190f for at least 45sec (88c)<br />
* '''Microwave''' - While this method will destroy a good number of microbes, the brewer runs the risk of releasing pectin from the fruit and destroying enzymes that give the fruit flavor and aroma.<br />
* '''Freeze''' The most popular way to add fruit for a homebrew is to freeze the fruit and add it to secondary fermentation. Freezing does two things, it puts the microbes to sleep, making it hard for them to wake up and compete with the yeast for food. Second, it can burst the cell walls of the fruit releasing more flavor from the skins. While there is a minute rate of infection for this method, it keeps the fruits' natural enzymes and bacterium alive long enough to contribute significant flavor.<br />
* '''High Tech''' Some newer brewers have been known to use gamma (xray) or UV or other high-tech methods to treat fruit. This method can keep the fruit flavors in tact but can let some more aggressive microbes to slip through.<br />
* '''Cook and Smoke''' - cooking can change the taste of your fruit in similar ways that boiling does. However a Brewer cooks fruit in an attempt to infuse the fruit with a baked or smokey flavoring.<br />
* '''Puree''' - Puree is one of the most efficient ways to get flavor into a brew. While it is the preferred method for fresh and frozen fruit, it can cloud up a beer if it is not filtered before bottling.<br />
* '''Dried''' - Dried fruit can be pasteurized, but it should never be assumed. Only add dried fruit that has been pasteurized or that you intend to treat yourself. while it's not as potent as fresh or frozen alternatives, it can be safer if you know what you're doing.<br />
* '''Zest''' - Zest is including the rind of a fruit into a beer. Zest can be added at any stage. Since many sources of this have had long exposure to the elements, make sure the source is washed and treated for microbes.<br />
* '''Juice''' - Fruit juices do not contain too much flavor, most of the flavor reside in the skins of the fruit. should a brew decide to juice a fruit themselves, caution should be taken to account for microbes. Commercially bought juices can be assumed to be microbe free, but can also contain additives not intended for beer. If a brewer does decide to use fruit juice commercial juice should be used, it contains pulp and it's safe.<br />
* '''Extract and Artificial Flavors''' - Extracts are the most potent option to a brewer. It contains the essence of the fruit in a safe applicable manner. While extracts can be used at any stage of brewing it should be used before bottling and sometimes in secondary fermentation. Since the extract has no fermentable sugars, there is no point in adding it to the fermentation process. The use of extracts should be used sparingly. A little goes a long way. Please, for the love of all that has been brewed, mix thoroughly before bottling!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br><br />
<br />
===Fruit===<br />
<br />
====Apple====<br />
This can be added to a beer at any stage in the brewing process. A lot of only recipes call for apple juice to be added into the wort cools. However since the flavor is so mild adding to secondary fermentation will produce stronger outcome.<br />
====Apricot====<br />
Has a nice peachy flavor. Add 3 pounds per gallon.<br />
<br />
====Banana====<br />
Very strong smell with a subtle taste. Wells Banana Bread Beer uses this.<br />
<br />
====Blueberry====<br />
Blueberries can spoil a beer if not handled correctly. Freeze and puree and add to secondary for results. Enourmous amounts of this berry is needed to get noticed in a beer.<br />
<br />
====Cherry====<br />
Sour cherries are possibly the best fruit to add to a beer. Three pounds per gallon of frozen and pureed cherries should be added into secondary. 1-3 years aging can finish the beer's flavor.<br />
====Coconut====<br />
Many recipes call for toasted coconut to be added to secondary.<br />
<br />
====Cranberry====<br />
This berry adds tartness and color without too much flavor. Freeze and puree, then add to secondary fermentation.<br />
<br />
====Date====<br />
This is the one fruit a brewer should peel before applying into a brew. This adds a nutty flavoring to beer.<br />
<br />
====Figs====<br />
Best when pureed and added to or after boil.<br />
<br />
====Lemon====<br />
A strong flavor with any amount at any stage of fermentation.<br />
<br />
====Lime====<br />
This is an ultra strong addition to any beer. It will dominate the beers taste if the brewer is not careful.<br />
<br />
====Mango====<br />
This can be peeled and frozen before adding to secondary.<br />
<br />
====Orange====<br />
A magical flavor, can be added at and point in the fermentation process.<br />
<br />
====Passion Fruit====<br />
Adds a vanilla flavoring to beer. Should be peeled and frozen before adding to secondary.<br />
<br />
====Peach====<br />
A poor choice for beer flavoring due to the very subtle flavor. The peach may not even be noticed in a brew. A brewer should use extract or additives when possible. See apricot.<br />
<br />
====Pear====<br />
There are all different types of pears used for ciders and beer. A subtle taste but refreshing.<br />
<br />
====Pinapple====<br />
Subtle but acidic, 2 pounds per gallon should give significant flavor.<br />
<br />
====Plum====<br />
Great in all kinds of beer, use 1+ pounds per gallon.<br />
<br />
====Pomegranate====<br />
Very subtle tasting, best to used Pomegranate juice sold in stores.<br />
<br />
====Pumpkin====<br />
Using pumpkin is the latest trend in commercial brewing. Add canned pumpkin to the mash or boil, filter carefully.<br />
<br />
====Raspberry====<br />
Very pronounced presence in any beer. Even small amounts of this can be noticed (1 lbs per gallon). Extract is available and powerful.<br />
<br />
====Strawberry====<br />
Best used for smell rather than flavor, add 2 pounds of frozen strawberry per gallon to secondary.<br />
<br />
====Watermelon====<br />
Ripe and overripe watermelon can add a subtle creamy flavor to a beer. 5-6 pounds of melon per gallon. Extract will give more of a watermelon flavor. Adding a rind will sour up the beer.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Friend_Maker_Wheat&diff=14792Friend Maker Wheat2016-03-20T16:16:20Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
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<div>*BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com<br />
*Recipe: Friend Maker Wheat<br />
*Brewer: Matt Craft<br />
*Style: American Wheat or Rye Beer<br />
*TYPE: All Grain<br />
*Taste: (35.0) <br />
<br />
Recipe Specifications<br />
--------------------------<br />
*Batch Size: 5.00 gal <br />
*Boil Size: 5.72 gal<br />
*Estimated OG: 1.054 SG<br />
*Estimated Color: 8.6 SRM<br />
*Estimated IBU: 9.9 IBU<br />
*Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %<br />
*Boil Time: 60 Minutes<br />
<br />
Ingredients:<br />
------------ <br />
*6.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 61.54 % <br />
*1.75 lb White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 17.95 % <br />
*1.00 lb Caramel Wheat Malt (46.0 SRM) Grain 10.26 % <br />
*1.00 lb Wheat Malt, Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 10.26 % <br />
*0.50 oz Glacier [5.60 %] (60 min) Hops 9.9 IBU <br />
*1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc <br />
<br />
<br />
Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body<br />
Total Grain Weight: 9.75 lb<br />
----------------------------<br />
<br />
*Step Time Name Description Step Temp <br />
*60 min Mash In Add 12.19 qt of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F <br />
*10 min Mash Out Add 5.85 qt of water at 206.2 F 168.0 F <br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
------<br />
I've only made this once, but everyone loved it. The best response outta any of my brews yet.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Recipes]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Oxidization&diff=14791Oxidization2016-03-20T16:15:02Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>==== Oxidization ====<br />
Generally oxidization involves the reaction of carbohydrates (in this case wort) with oxygen to from water and carbon dioxide. This occurs during [[Mashing]], [[Sparging]] and [[Boiling]] as the heat present is sufficient to provide the required activation energy for the reaction. This reaction is undesirable in beer brewing as the sugar is effectively wasted.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Technical]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Original_gravity&diff=14790Original gravity2016-03-20T16:14:03Z<p>Jthaworth: Added categories</p>
<hr />
<div>Original gravity (OG) refers to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/elative_density relative density] of [[wort]], (unfermented beer) usually expressed as a ratio to the density of water. The relative density is closely related to the amount of fermentable sugar dissolved in the wort, and helps predict the alcohol content of the finished beer.<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravity_(beer) Wikipedia - Gravity (beer)]<br />
<br />
[[fr:Densité de départ]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Technical]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Estimating_Bitterness&diff=14789Estimating Bitterness2016-03-20T16:11:48Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>==AAU==<br />
Alpha Acid Units is a quick way for brewers to estimate how much bitterness hop additions will add to their beer. It is calculated by multiplying the amount of hops added (in ounces) by the alpha acid content of the hops. The drawback to this is that it takes neither boiling time nor wort gravity into account, both of which affect the utilization (conversion of alpha-acids to iso-alpha acids) of the hops.<br />
For example, if you added 1 oz of 4% alpha acid Fuggles, you would have 4 AAUs (4 x 1)<br />
if you added 1.5 oz of 13.25% Simcoe you would get 19.875 AAUs.<br />
The AAU format is helpful for sharing recipes but does not give an accurate prediction of final bitterness.<br />
<br />
<br />
AAUs are the easiest to calculate, but most brewers use IBUs. For normal strength beers you can approximate the IBUs in Tinseth simply by multiplying the AAUs by 3.5. Using the above example 4 AAUs x 3.5 = 14 IBUs.<br />
<br />
==Tinseth==<br />
[http://www.realbeer.com/hops/ Glenn Tinseth] developed a method to calculate bitterness in beer based on his research.<br />
Glenn found that many factors affected the conversion of alpha-acids to iso-alpha-acids (boil time, wort gravity, volume of wort in boil)<br />
Glenn developed the following formula to calculate bitterness in [[IBU]]s:<br><br />
IBU = (U * ozs hops * 7490)/Volume (in gallons)<br />
U represents the utilization of the hops (conversion to iso-alpha-acids) based on boil time and wort gravity.<br />
U = [http://www.realbeer.com/hops/research.html bigness factor * boil time factor]<br />
<br />
==Rager==<br />
<br />
==Garetz==<br />
<br />
==First Wort Hopping==<br />
<br />
==Bitterness Ratio==<br />
The preceived bitterness expressed in a ratio of IBUs to gravity.<br />
This is frequently seen expressed as BU/GU. That is Bitterness Units/Gravity Units. This is used as a comparator and for checking balance (or lack thereof) in a recipe. The Gravity Units are the decimal portion of the original gravity. A 1.060 OG wort would have a GU of 60. If this recipe called for 30 IBUs, then the ratio would be 30/60 or 0.5<br />
It is with this method that a brewer can estimate whether bitterness or malt will dominate the flavor profile.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Technical]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Pride_of_Ringwood&diff=14788Pride of Ringwood2016-03-20T16:09:41Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>Australian variety of hops bred by Carlton and United Breweries, Victoria in 1953.<br />
<br />
Pride of Ringwood will impart a very distinct flavour similar to those found in many of the great commercial Australian beers and home brew recipes.<br />
This variety of hops will provide an Alpha rating of around 10%<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewed_Beers_and_Stouts&diff=14787Home Brewed Beers and Stouts2016-03-20T16:07:15Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>== ''Home Brewed Beers and Stouts'' by C.J.J.Berry ==<br />
<br />
When ''Home Brewed Beers and Stouts'' [http://www.amazon.com/Brewed-Beers-Stouts-C-J-J-Berry/dp/1854861239/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233914318&sr=8-10] was first published in 1963 it was probably the best available homebrew book in the UK at the time. When I bought my copy (for 70p) in 1978 it was the 17th reprint, but still the same edition and I found it to be much less useful than the excellent Dave Line books at the time. The fact that it hasn't had a significant update since then means that I cannot recommend it as a useful guide to homebrewing. If you want to start home brewing, I'd recommend the writings of John Alexander, Graham Wheeler, Charlie Papazian and/or John Palmer.<br />
<br />
However, this book has some curious recipes that may be of some historical value, e.g. a recipe for Cock Ale, but I'm not sure that these are worth 70p never mind the current asking price! I never dared to brew any of them. Life is too short to brew recipes that look bad on paper and I have little confidence will be any better in the glass.<br />
<br />
--[[User:LesHowarth|LesHowarth]] 10:08, 6 February 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
[[Category:References]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewer%27s_Recipe_Database&diff=14786Home Brewer's Recipe Database2016-03-20T16:06:02Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>== ''Home Brewer's Recipe Database'' by Les Howarth ==<br />
<br />
The ''Home Brewer's Recipe Database''[http://www.iuniverse.com/Bookstore/BookDetail.aspx?BookId=SKU-000020168] does not contain any recipes but has ingredient information that should permit you to design your own recipes in order to replicate thousands of excellent beers at home. Many of these beers are no longer commercially brewed so the only way to try to taste them now is to brew them yourself. This book also gives an interesting historical insight into the way that some British brewers have adjusted their recipes through the 1990s and can provide you with the justification to break some brewing "rules" with your own creations.<br />
<br />
The ''Home Brewer's Recipe Database'' is available as an inexpensive e-book.<br />
<br />
[[Image:HBRD.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:References]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Brewing_Beers_Like_Those_You_Buy&diff=14785Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy2016-03-20T16:04:57Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>== ''Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy''[http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Beers-Those-Amateur-Winemaker/dp/1854861255/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233944537&sr=1-1] by Dave Line ==<br />
<br />
I'd been home winemaking for a while and had just been introduced to and developed a taste for real ale when I came across the original edition of this book. It has a recipe for Greene King Abbot Ale which at the time was my favourite beer but unavailable in Liverpool so purchase was immediate! To cut a long story short this was the start of my full mash grain brewing that I've found to be the most enjoyable hobby. I'm still learning 30 years later!<br />
<br />
I found that most of the recipes in this book produced good results although not always that close to the real thing. I know that Dave Line over-estimated the likely efficiencies achievable by home brewers but I don't remember this causing me any great problems at the time. When my extracts came out low I just relaxed, didn't worry and had a homebrew (long before I'd heard of Charlie Papazian) and either accepted a beer a bit low in OG, added some sugar and/or boiled a bit longer. The important thing for me was the delicious end result. It is easy to increase the amount of malt or reduce the target brew length to ensure you hit target OGs if that is a concern for you.<br />
<br />
My original copy is very well used, battered, wort-stained and annotated. This seems to be a common feature with this book. My favourite recipes from this book were Greene King Abbot Ale (it never came out like the real thing - it was usually better!), Eldridge Pope Royal Oak (very consistent) and Gibbs Mew Bishops Tipple (this is was a very popular brew with friends and I recommend that every brewer try this recipe at least once - it is a remarkable big beer). <br />
<br />
--[[User:LesHowarth|LesHowarth]] 18:26, 6 February 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
[[Category:References]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Strisselspalt_Hops&diff=14784Strisselspalt Hops2016-03-20T16:01:16Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Origin and Description'''<br />
<br />
Strisselspalt Hops is one of the few varieties from France, and other varieties from the country include Elsasser, Precoce de Bourgogne, and Tardif de Bourgogne. Strisselspalt is a natural variety grown mainly around Stasbourg. <br />
<br />
Strisselspalt is very much an aroma variety with a 1:1 alpha beta ratio and alpha acid content ranging from 3.0%-5.0%. It has a low co-humulone content as well measuring at 20.0%-25.0%. All oils are moderate with the exception of farnesene oil which barely registers. The aroma is described as having a mild pleasant hoppy bouquet. <br />
<br />
Strisselspalt is used around the world, and is sought after for its aromatic qualities. It has helped to shape many of the varying style beers from the French breweries. Its a low yielding plant of medium size cones which are moderately compact. Despite the susceptibility to disease and fungus, Strisselspalt lives on due to the demand of this industry shaping hops variety.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Strisselspalt Hops Usage'''<br />
<br />
Strisselspalt hops is commonly used as as aroma agent in beer. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Strisselspalt Hops Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Below is a list of characteristics for strisselspalt hops that impact farming, chemistry, transport & trade, beer production, as well as the final character of the finished product.<br />
<br />
Strisselspalt Hops Acid Composition<br />
Alpha Acid Composition 3%-5% <br />
Beta Acid Composition 3%-5.5% <br />
Co-Humulone Composition 20%-25% <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Hops Cone Physical Characteristics'''<br />
Strisselspalt Lupulin Color Dark Yellow <br />
Strisselspalt Cone Size Medium <br />
Strisselspalt Cone Density Moderate to Compact <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Hops Growth, Harvest, and Storage Details'''<br />
Maturity Late Season<br />
Yield for Strisselspalt Hops is Low to Moderate at 1350 - 1800 kg/hectare<br />
Growth Rate Vigorous<br />
<br />
Susceptibility to Disease and Pests Susceptible To:<br />
English Wilt,French Wilt,Downy Mildew,Powdery Mildew;, <br />
Storability Strisselspalt Hops maintains 60%-70% alpha acid comtents after 6 months storage at 20 degrees C <br />
Ease of Harvest Good <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Growth Rate Vigorous'''<br />
<br />
Susceptibility to Disease and Pests Susceptible To:<br />
English Wilt,French Wilt,Downy Mildew,Powdery Mildew;, <br />
Storability Strisselspalt Hops maintains 60%-70% alpha acid comtents after 6 months storage at 20 degrees C <br />
Ease of Harvest Good <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Hops Oil Composition'''<br />
Total Oil Composition 0.6-0.9 mls/100 grams <br />
Myrcene Oil Composition 20%-30% <br />
Humulene Oil Composition 15%-25% <br />
Caryophyllene Oil Composition 8%-10% <br />
Farnesene Oil Composition 0%-1% <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Strisselspalt Hops Substitutes'''<br />
Variety Description <br />
Mount Hood Mt Hood is another descendant of the Hallertau family of Hops and is specifically a cross between a colchicine induced tetraploid Read More... <br />
Crystal Crystal Hops was born in 1983, created in Corvallis Oregon. Drink a Rogue Brutal Bitter, and say colchicine induced tetraploid three times. This type of Hall... Read More... <br />
Hersbrucker Hersbrucker Hops was the gift of the earth from the Hersbruck district in Hallertau Germany. This variety, found from natural selection, has been taking over a... Read More... <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Common Beer Styles for Strisselspalt Hops'''<br />
Beer Style <br />
Lager <br />
Saison <br />
Blonde Ale <br />
Amber Ale <br />
Belgian Ale <br />
Bock <br />
Mai Bock <br />
Golden Ale <br />
Belgian Pale Ale<br />
<br />
<br />
Source: http://beerlegends.com/strisselspalt-hops Beer Legends<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Centennial_Hops&diff=14783Centennial Hops2016-03-20T15:51:57Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>== Centennial Hops ==<br />
<br />
Centennial hops were bred in 1974 but not released to the general public until 1990. Centennial are a cross between many varieties. <br />
<br />
<br />
* Typical Use : Both bittering and aroma<br />
* Alpha Acid : 9 to 12% AAU<br />
* Origination : USA<br />
* Commercial Examples : Stone IPA, Racer 5 IPA<br />
* Characteristics : Citrus, leaning toward lemon and pine <br />
* Styles : Most Ale styles. <br />
* Similar Hops : Cascade, Columbus<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahtanum_Hops&diff=14782Ahtanum Hops2016-03-20T15:51:19Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself.<br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use : Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid : 4 to 6.5% AAU<br />
*Origination : USA ?<br />
*Characteristics : Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Styles : American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops : Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples : Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Ahatnum_Hops&diff=14781Ahatnum Hops2016-03-20T15:50:17Z<p>Jthaworth: Added category</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Ahtanum Hops'''<br />
<br />
'''Characteristics'''<br />
<br />
Ahtanum is an aroma/flavoring hop variety that is similar to Cascade or Amarillo. It has a citrus and floral character much like cascade with the addition of some piney or earth notes. Grapefruit quality is more forward in than in cascade as well. Alpha acids are lower than cascade at 4 to 6.5% AAU making Ahtanum a good choice for a flavor addition when you do not want to impart quite the bitterness of cascade or amarillo.<br />
Beer styles suited for Ahtanum include American APA, American IPA, Light lagers. I also think they would be nice in a brown ale, but have not tried this out myself.<br />
<br />
'''Specifications'''<br />
*Typical Use : Aroma/Flavor<br />
*Alpha Acid : 4 to 6.5% AAU<br />
*Origination : USA ?<br />
*Characteristics : Floral, citrus, piney, Sharp<br />
*Styles : American Ales & Lagers<br />
*Similar Hops : Cascade, Amarillo<br />
*Commercial Examples : Stone Brewing - Arrogant Bastard, Sierra Nevada - Celebration<br />
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[[Category:Ingredients]]</div>Jthaworthhttp://brewwiki.com/index.php?title=Specific_gravity&diff=14780Specific gravity2016-03-20T15:42:38Z<p>Jthaworth: Clarification of reference for measurement</p>
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<div>'''Specific Gravity (SG)''' is a measure of the relative density of one material compared to another. For brewing, the reference material is water, so the specific gravity of [[wort]] or beer is simply the density of the liquid divided by the density of water. This results in a dimensionless number, which by brewing convention is usually listed to three decimal places. For example, pure water would have a specific gravity of 1.000, while an unfermented wort might have a specific gravity of 1.048. Finished beer would typically have a specific gravity in the 1.005-1.015 range. The specific gravity measure is somewhat ambiguous, since the density of water does vary with temperature, but by convention specific gravity in brewing is typically measured by a [[hydrometer]] calibrated to 60 F. The measured value should be adjusted based on the actual temperature of the measured fluid. Specific gravity is typically measured at several points during the [[processes|brewing process]] - after [[sparging]], before [[fermentation]] and after fermentation. The gravity measured before fermentation is called the [[Original Gravity]] and the measurement after fermentation is called the [[Final Gravity]].<br />
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==See Also==<br />
* [[Hydrometer]]<br />
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[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Jthaworth