BrewWiki - User contributions [en]

Organizations

2016-09-20T21:22:46Z

Jomebrew: /* California */

{{Portal|name=Organizations}}
A large number of national, regional and local organizations and clubs exist to support homebrewing. See the links below for some of the larger organizations.

==US National Organizations==
* [http://www.beertown.org/homebrewing/index.html American Homebrewers Association]
* [[Beer Judge Certification Program|Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP)]] - ([http://www.bjcp.org home page])
* [http://www.beertown.org/craftbrewing/about.html Brewers Association] - For microbreweries & [[Craft Beer]] breweries

==Non-US National Organizations==
* [http://www.homebrewers.ca/ Canadian Amateur Brewers Association]
* [http://www.craftbrewing.org.uk/ UK Craft Brewing Association] - UK Homebrewing
* Cerveceros Caseros - Argentina - http://www.cerveceroscaseros.com.ar - La comunidad cervecera más grande de habla hispana.

==Local Non-US Brew Clubs==
A listing of non-us local brew clubs - Listed alphabetically by country. Editor note: This may need to be a separate article once it gets larger.

===BRASIL===

===Rio de Janeiro===
* ACervA Carioca (Associação dos Cervejeiros Artesanais Cariocas) - Rio de Janeiro, Brasil - http://www.acervacarioca.com.br

===São Paulo===
* ACervA Paulista (Associação dos Cervejeiros Artesanais Paulistas) - São Paulo, Brasil - http://www.acervapaulista.com.br

===CANADA===

===Alberta===
* [http://www.yeastwranglers.ca Cowtown Yeast Wranglers] - Calgary, AB
* [http://www.ehg.ca Edmonton Homebrewers Guild] - Edmonton, AB
* [http://www.netcon.ca/werthogs/ Werthogs of Lethbidge] - Lethbridge, AB

===British Columbia===
* [http://www.meadworks.ca Meadworks] - Vancouver, BC
* [http://www.vanbrewers.ca VanBrewers] - Vancouver, BC

===Manitoba===
* [http://www.winnipegbrewbombers.ca Winnipeg Brew Bombers] - Winnipeg, MB

===Nova Scotia===
* [http://www.brewnosers.org/forums/ BrewNosers] - Halifax, NS

===Ontario===
* [http://barleyment.wort.ca Members of Barleyment] - Ottawa, ON

===Saskatchewan===
* [http://www.alesclub.com Ales & Lager Enthusiasts of Saskatchewan (ALES)] - Regina, SK

===Quebec===
* [http://www.montrealers.ca MontreAlers] - Montreal, QC

===UNITED KINGDOM===
* [http://www.scottishcraftbrewers.org Scottish Craft Brewers] - Scotland, UK

==Local US Brew Clubs==
A listing of local brew clubs - Listed by state and city (or country if not US). Editor note: This may need to be a separate article once it gets larger.

===Online Brew Clubs===

* [http://www.brews-bros.com Brews-Bros.com]
* [http://virtualbrewclub.com The Virtual Brew Club]

===Alaska===
* [http://www.greatnorthernbrewers.org Great Northern Brewers Club] - Anchorage, AK

===Arizona===
* [http://www.azhomebrewers.org Arizona Society of Homebrewers] - Phoenix Area (East Side), AZ
* [http://www.brewarizona.org Brewmeisters Anonymous] - Phoenix Area (West Side), AZ
* [http://www.rimcountryhomebrewers.com Rim Country Homebrewers] - Central Arizona Mogollon Rim (Payson, Pine, Strawberry), AZ

===California===
* [https://www.facebook.com/almadenbrewers/ Almaden Brewers] - San Jose, CA
* [http://www.bayareamashers.org/ Bay Area Mashers] - Berkeley, CA
* [http://www.brewcommune.com BrewCommune] - Orange County, California
* [http://www.maltosefalcons.com The Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society] - Los Angeles, CA
* [http://www.quaff.org/ QUAFF (Quality Ale and Fermentation Fraternity)] - San Diego, CA
* [http://www.sonomabeerocrats.org/ Sonoma Beerocrats] - Santa Rosa, CA

===Colorado===
* [http://www.foamontherange.org/ Foam On The Range] - Aurora, CO
* [http://www.milehighmonks.com/ Mile High Monks] - Denver, CO
* [http://www.liquidpoets.com/ Liquid Poets Society] - Ft Collins, CO
* [https://www.facebook.com/bookcliffhomebrewclub/ Bookcliff Home Brew Club] - Grand Junction, CO

===Connecticut===
* [http://www.kotmf.com/ Knights of the Mashing Fork] - Greater Hartford, CT

===District of Columbia===
* [http://burp.burp.org Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP)] - Area around DC, MD, VA

===Florida===
* [http://www.saaz.org/ Space Coast Associates for the Advancement of Zymurgy] - Brevard, FL
* [http://www.dunedinbrewersguild.com/ Dunedin Brewers Guild] - Dunedin, FL
* [http://www.browardhomebrewers.org/ Fort Lauderdale Area Brewers] - Fort Lauderdale, FL
* [http://www.hogtownbrewers.org/ Hogtown Brewers] - Gainesville, FL
* [http://www.thecask.org/ Jacksonville Area Brewers] - Jacksonville, FL
* [http://www.hbd.org/mash/ Miami Area Society of Homebrewers] - Miami, FL
* [http://www.cfhb.org/ Central Florida Home Brewers] - Orlando, FL
* [http://www.tcbrewmasters.org/ Treasure Coast BrewMasters] - Stuart, FL
* [http://www.nfbl.org/ North Florida Brewer's League] - Tallahassee, FL
* [http://www.tampabaybeers.org/ Tampa Bay BEERS] - Tampa, FL
* [http://www.palmbeachdraughtsmen.com/ Palm Beach Draughtsmen] - West Palm Beach, FL

===Georgia===
* [http://www.hbd.org/sbl Savannah Brewers League] - Savannah, GA
* [http://www.facebook.com/zingbrewclub Zymurgical Initiative of North Georgia (ZING)] - Calhoun, GA

===Illinois===
* [http://www.chibeer.org Chicago Beer Society] - Chicago, IL

* [http://chaosbrewclub.ning.com CHAOS Brew Club] - Chicago, IL

===Indiana===
* [http://www.ovha.net/ (Ohio Valley Homebrewers Association)] - Evansville, IN
* [http://www.fossils.org/ FOSSILS (Fermenters of Special Southern Indiana Libations Society)] - New Albany, IN
* MECA Brewers - Central Indiana (We have members from and meet in various locations in Central Indiana)
* [http://www.tippyhomebrewers.org/ THC - (Tippecanoe Homebrewer's Circle)]- Tippecanoe County, Lafayette & West Lafayette, IN

===Iowa===
* [http://www.iowabrewersunion.org/ IBU (Iowa Brewers Union)] - Des Moines, IA

===Kansas===
* [http://lawrencebrewers.org/ Lawrence Brewers Guild] - Lawrence, KS

===Kentucky===
* [http://www.lagersclub.com/ LAGERS (Louisville Area Grain and Extract Research Society)] - Louisville, KY
* [http://www.hbd.org/bock/ BOCK (Brewers of Central Kentucky)] - Lexington, KY

===Michigan===
* [http://hbd.org/ford/ F.O.R.D. (Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen)] - Dearborn or thereabouts, MI
* [http://www.CRAFThomebrewclub.org/ CRAFT (Clinton River Association of Fermenting Trendsetters] - Macomb (N. Detroit subs), MI
* [http://www.snobsbrewclub.com/ SNOBs (Society of North Oakland Brewers)] - Serving North Oakland County, MI and beyond

===Montana===
* The Ghetto Spoon Spargers - Bozeman, MT

===New York===
* [http://hbd.org/nychg/ New York City Homebrewers Guild] - New York, NY
* [http://www.hvhomebrewers.com/index.html Hudson Valley Homebrewers] - Poughkeepsie, NY

===North Carolina===
* [http://www.carolinabrewmasters.com/ The Carolina Brewmasters] - Charlotte, NC

===Ohio===
* [http://www.hbd.org/bloat/home.html Bloatarians] - Cincinnati, OH
* [http://saazakron.com Society of Akron Area Zymurgists] - Akron, OH
* [http://www.beersnobs.org Society of North East Ohio Brewers] - Cleveland, OH

===Oklahoma===
* [http://www.alemakers.com Fellowship of Oklahoma Alemakers] - Tulsa, OK
* [http://www.draughters.com High Plains Draughters] - Oklahoma City, OK

===Texas===
* [http://www.austinzealots.com/ Austin Zealots] - Austin, TX
* [http://www.texascarboys.org/ Texas Carboys] - Cedar Park, TX
* Bryan & College Station, TX - [http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=35902700914 Texas Aggieland Brew Club] (TAbc)
* [http://www.nthba.org/ North Texas Homebrewers Assn] - Dallas, TX
* [http://www.foamrangers.com/ Foam Rangers] - Houston, TX
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SAbeergroup/ San Antonio Area Zymurgists (SAAZ)] - San Antonio, TX

===Vermont===
* [http://www.mashers.org/ Green Mountain Mashers] - at large, VT

===Virginia===
* [http://www.worthogs.com/ Wort Hogs] - Reston, VA
* [http://www.jrhb.org/ James River Homebrew] - Richmond, VA

===Wisconsin===
* [http://www.rackers.org/ Green Bay Rackers] - Green Bay, WI
* [http://www.mhtg.org/ Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild] - Madison, WI
* [http://www.beerbarons.org/ Beer Barons of Milwaukee] - Milwaukee, WI

==See Also==
* [[References|Brewing References]]

==External Links==
[http://www.beertown.org/homebrewing/listings.asp AHA Homebrew Club Listings]

[[Category:Organizations]]

Organizations

2016-09-20T21:17:22Z

Jomebrew:

{{Portal|name=Organizations}}
A large number of national, regional and local organizations and clubs exist to support homebrewing. See the links below for some of the larger organizations.

==US National Organizations==
* [http://www.beertown.org/homebrewing/index.html American Homebrewers Association]
* [[Beer Judge Certification Program|Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP)]] - ([http://www.bjcp.org home page])
* [http://www.beertown.org/craftbrewing/about.html Brewers Association] - For microbreweries & [[Craft Beer]] breweries

==Non-US National Organizations==
* [http://www.homebrewers.ca/ Canadian Amateur Brewers Association]
* [http://www.craftbrewing.org.uk/ UK Craft Brewing Association] - UK Homebrewing
* Cerveceros Caseros - Argentina - http://www.cerveceroscaseros.com.ar - La comunidad cervecera más grande de habla hispana.

==Local Non-US Brew Clubs==
A listing of non-us local brew clubs - Listed alphabetically by country. Editor note: This may need to be a separate article once it gets larger.

===BRASIL===

===Rio de Janeiro===
* ACervA Carioca (Associação dos Cervejeiros Artesanais Cariocas) - Rio de Janeiro, Brasil - http://www.acervacarioca.com.br

===São Paulo===
* ACervA Paulista (Associação dos Cervejeiros Artesanais Paulistas) - São Paulo, Brasil - http://www.acervapaulista.com.br

===CANADA===

===Alberta===
* [http://www.yeastwranglers.ca Cowtown Yeast Wranglers] - Calgary, AB
* [http://www.ehg.ca Edmonton Homebrewers Guild] - Edmonton, AB
* [http://www.netcon.ca/werthogs/ Werthogs of Lethbidge] - Lethbridge, AB

===British Columbia===
* [http://www.meadworks.ca Meadworks] - Vancouver, BC
* [http://www.vanbrewers.ca VanBrewers] - Vancouver, BC

===Manitoba===
* [http://www.winnipegbrewbombers.ca Winnipeg Brew Bombers] - Winnipeg, MB

===Nova Scotia===
* [http://www.brewnosers.org/forums/ BrewNosers] - Halifax, NS

===Ontario===
* [http://barleyment.wort.ca Members of Barleyment] - Ottawa, ON

===Saskatchewan===
* [http://www.alesclub.com Ales & Lager Enthusiasts of Saskatchewan (ALES)] - Regina, SK

===Quebec===
* [http://www.montrealers.ca MontreAlers] - Montreal, QC

===UNITED KINGDOM===
* [http://www.scottishcraftbrewers.org Scottish Craft Brewers] - Scotland, UK

==Local US Brew Clubs==
A listing of local brew clubs - Listed by state and city (or country if not US). Editor note: This may need to be a separate article once it gets larger.

===Online Brew Clubs===

* [http://www.brews-bros.com Brews-Bros.com]
* [http://virtualbrewclub.com The Virtual Brew Club]

===Alaska===
* [http://www.greatnorthernbrewers.org Great Northern Brewers Club] - Anchorage, AK

===Arizona===
* [http://www.azhomebrewers.org Arizona Society of Homebrewers] - Phoenix Area (East Side), AZ
* [http://www.brewarizona.org Brewmeisters Anonymous] - Phoenix Area (West Side), AZ
* [http://www.rimcountryhomebrewers.com Rim Country Homebrewers] - Central Arizona Mogollon Rim (Payson, Pine, Strawberry), AZ

===California===
* [http://www.bayareamashers.org/ Bay Area Mashers] - Berkeley, CA
* [http://www.maltosefalcons.com The Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society] - Los Angeles, CA
* [http://www.brewcommune.com BrewCommune] - Orange County, California
* [http://www.quaff.org/ QUAFF (Quality Ale and Fermentation Fraternity)] - San Diego, CA
* [http://www.sonomabeerocrats.org/ Sonoma Beerocrats] - Santa Rosa, CA

===Colorado===
* [http://www.foamontherange.org/ Foam On The Range] - Aurora, CO
* [http://www.milehighmonks.com/ Mile High Monks] - Denver, CO
* [http://www.liquidpoets.com/ Liquid Poets Society] - Ft Collins, CO
* [https://www.facebook.com/bookcliffhomebrewclub/ Bookcliff Home Brew Club] - Grand Junction, CO

===Connecticut===
* [http://www.kotmf.com/ Knights of the Mashing Fork] - Greater Hartford, CT

===District of Columbia===
* [http://burp.burp.org Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP)] - Area around DC, MD, VA

===Florida===
* [http://www.saaz.org/ Space Coast Associates for the Advancement of Zymurgy] - Brevard, FL
* [http://www.dunedinbrewersguild.com/ Dunedin Brewers Guild] - Dunedin, FL
* [http://www.browardhomebrewers.org/ Fort Lauderdale Area Brewers] - Fort Lauderdale, FL
* [http://www.hogtownbrewers.org/ Hogtown Brewers] - Gainesville, FL
* [http://www.thecask.org/ Jacksonville Area Brewers] - Jacksonville, FL
* [http://www.hbd.org/mash/ Miami Area Society of Homebrewers] - Miami, FL
* [http://www.cfhb.org/ Central Florida Home Brewers] - Orlando, FL
* [http://www.tcbrewmasters.org/ Treasure Coast BrewMasters] - Stuart, FL
* [http://www.nfbl.org/ North Florida Brewer's League] - Tallahassee, FL
* [http://www.tampabaybeers.org/ Tampa Bay BEERS] - Tampa, FL
* [http://www.palmbeachdraughtsmen.com/ Palm Beach Draughtsmen] - West Palm Beach, FL

===Georgia===
* [http://www.hbd.org/sbl Savannah Brewers League] - Savannah, GA
* [http://www.facebook.com/zingbrewclub Zymurgical Initiative of North Georgia (ZING)] - Calhoun, GA

===Illinois===
* [http://www.chibeer.org Chicago Beer Society] - Chicago, IL

* [http://chaosbrewclub.ning.com CHAOS Brew Club] - Chicago, IL

===Indiana===
* [http://www.ovha.net/ (Ohio Valley Homebrewers Association)] - Evansville, IN
* [http://www.fossils.org/ FOSSILS (Fermenters of Special Southern Indiana Libations Society)] - New Albany, IN
* MECA Brewers - Central Indiana (We have members from and meet in various locations in Central Indiana)
* [http://www.tippyhomebrewers.org/ THC - (Tippecanoe Homebrewer's Circle)]- Tippecanoe County, Lafayette & West Lafayette, IN

===Iowa===
* [http://www.iowabrewersunion.org/ IBU (Iowa Brewers Union)] - Des Moines, IA

===Kansas===
* [http://lawrencebrewers.org/ Lawrence Brewers Guild] - Lawrence, KS

===Kentucky===
* [http://www.lagersclub.com/ LAGERS (Louisville Area Grain and Extract Research Society)] - Louisville, KY
* [http://www.hbd.org/bock/ BOCK (Brewers of Central Kentucky)] - Lexington, KY

===Michigan===
* [http://hbd.org/ford/ F.O.R.D. (Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen)] - Dearborn or thereabouts, MI
* [http://www.CRAFThomebrewclub.org/ CRAFT (Clinton River Association of Fermenting Trendsetters] - Macomb (N. Detroit subs), MI
* [http://www.snobsbrewclub.com/ SNOBs (Society of North Oakland Brewers)] - Serving North Oakland County, MI and beyond

===Montana===
* The Ghetto Spoon Spargers - Bozeman, MT

===New York===
* [http://hbd.org/nychg/ New York City Homebrewers Guild] - New York, NY
* [http://www.hvhomebrewers.com/index.html Hudson Valley Homebrewers] - Poughkeepsie, NY

===North Carolina===
* [http://www.carolinabrewmasters.com/ The Carolina Brewmasters] - Charlotte, NC

===Ohio===
* [http://www.hbd.org/bloat/home.html Bloatarians] - Cincinnati, OH
* [http://saazakron.com Society of Akron Area Zymurgists] - Akron, OH
* [http://www.beersnobs.org Society of North East Ohio Brewers] - Cleveland, OH

===Oklahoma===
* [http://www.alemakers.com Fellowship of Oklahoma Alemakers] - Tulsa, OK
* [http://www.draughters.com High Plains Draughters] - Oklahoma City, OK

===Texas===
* [http://www.austinzealots.com/ Austin Zealots] - Austin, TX
* [http://www.texascarboys.org/ Texas Carboys] - Cedar Park, TX
* Bryan & College Station, TX - [http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=35902700914 Texas Aggieland Brew Club] (TAbc)
* [http://www.nthba.org/ North Texas Homebrewers Assn] - Dallas, TX
* [http://www.foamrangers.com/ Foam Rangers] - Houston, TX
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SAbeergroup/ San Antonio Area Zymurgists (SAAZ)] - San Antonio, TX

===Vermont===
* [http://www.mashers.org/ Green Mountain Mashers] - at large, VT

===Virginia===
* [http://www.worthogs.com/ Wort Hogs] - Reston, VA
* [http://www.jrhb.org/ James River Homebrew] - Richmond, VA

===Wisconsin===
* [http://www.rackers.org/ Green Bay Rackers] - Green Bay, WI
* [http://www.mhtg.org/ Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild] - Madison, WI
* [http://www.beerbarons.org/ Beer Barons of Milwaukee] - Milwaukee, WI

==See Also==
* [[References|Brewing References]]

==External Links==
[http://www.beertown.org/homebrewing/listings.asp AHA Homebrew Club Listings]

[[Category:Organizations]]

Hydrometer

2016-03-20T19:37:44Z

Jomebrew:

__NOTOC__
[[File:Hydrometer.png|right|thumb|Hydrometer]]
A '''hydrometer''' is a device used to measure the specific gravity of unfermented wort and fermented beer during the [[Processes|brewing process]]. The most common form of brewing hydrometer is a hollow glass device with a metal weight at the bottom. A paper scale is included inside the tube, and usually marked in one or more scales. The hydrometer floats freely in the liquid you are measuring, and is read at the point where the surface of the liquid touches the stem. The most frequently used scale for brewing is the specific gravity scale. The [[specific gravity]] scale provides a relative measure of sugar as compared to water, and is typically expressed to three digits after the decimal point as in ''1.040''.

===Using a Hydrometer===
The proper way to use a hydrometer is to draw a small quantity of wort or beer into a sampling tube or test jar, and then insert the hydrometer into the sample. Do not use the plastic tube the hydrometer came in for measuring a sample as it is too small for a proper measurement. Take your reading on the appropriate scale by reading where the surface of the sample crosses the scale on the hydrometer.

===Adjusting for Temperature===
The most common type of hydrometer sold for brewing is calibrated for use on water at temperature of 60 F. If the liquid you are measuring is at a different temperature, you need to make an adjustment to account for the difference between calibration temperature and the liquid's temperature. You can perform this calculation with a brewing calculator such as [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith] or you can use a hydrometer adjustment table such as [http://www.ebrew.com/primarynews/ct_hydrometer_temp_correction.htm this one].

==See Also==
* [[Equipment]]
* [[Specific gravity]]
* [[Refractometer]]

==External Links==
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Brewing Software]
* [http://www.ebrew.com/primarynews/ct_hydrometer_temp_correction.htm Alternate Beverage Hydrometer Correction Table]]

[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Suppliers

2016-02-28T22:54:00Z

Jomebrew:

{{Portal|name=Suppliers}}
A variety of shops, online stores, and wholesale suppliers are available to help you create your favorite homebrew or craftbrew. This article includes just a few of the thousands available.

==Online Suppliers==
A listing of suppliers with online catalogs and order forms. Listed alphabetically.
* [http://www.homebrewing.org Adventures in Homebrewing]
* [http://www.austinhomebrew.com/ Austin Homebrew Supply]
* [http://barleyhaven.com/ Barley Haven]
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer]
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Recipe Software]
* [http://beertobrew.com Beer To Brew]
* [http://www.bvrgelements.com/ Beverage Elements Kegging Equipment]
* [http://www.bxbeerdepot.com/ BX Beer Depot]
* [http://www.freshops.com/ Freshhops.com]
* [http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies]
* [http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/ HomeBrew4Less.com]
* [http://www.homebrewheaven.com/ Homebrew Heaven]
* [http://www.homebrewing.com/ Home Brewing]
* [http://www.homebrewmart.com/ Home Brew Mart]
* [http://www.thehomebrewstore.com/ Home Brew Supply, LLC]
* [http://www.hopsandberries.com/ Hops & Berries]
* [http://www.kegcowboy.com/ Keg Cowboy Brewing & Dispensing Equipment]
* [http://www.leeners.com/ Leeners Homebrew Supply]
* [http://www.maltytasking.com/ Malty Tasking, LLC]
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ Midwest Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies]
* [http://www.northernbrewer.com/ Northern Brewer]
* [http://www.paddockwood.com/ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies]
* [http://www.thebrewhut.com The Brew Hut]
* [http://www.ushomebrewsupply.com/ US Homebrew Supply]
* [http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Williams Brewing]
* [http://www.jaysbrewing.com/ Jay's Brewing]

==Brewing Software Suppliers==
Software for formulating recipes and performing brewing calculations.
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Brewing Software]
* [http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/ Brewtarget]
* [http://www.promash.com ProMash Brewing Software]
* [http://www.strangebrew.ca StrangeBrew Brewing Software]
* [http://www.usermode.org/code.html Qbrew] - Cross-Platform, Open Source Brewing Software

== Local Brewing Suppliers by State & Country==
Listed by state and city or country if appropriate.
===California===
* [http://www.brewsupply.com/ Culver City Home Brewing Supply] - Culver City, CA
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Concord
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Riverside
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Los Altos
* [http://www.homebrewmart.com/ Home Brew Mart] - San Diego, CA
* [http://www.osheabrewing.com/ O'shea Brewing Company] - Irvine, CA
* [http://www.sfbrewcraft.com/ San Francisco Brewcraft] - San Francisco, CA
* [http://www.steinfillers.com/ Stein Fillers] - Long Beach
* [http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Williams Brewing] - San Leandro, CA

===Colorado===
* [http://barleyhaven.com/ Barley Haven ] - Lakewood, CO
* [http://www.thebrewhut.com/ The Brew Hut] - Aurora, CO
* [http://www.whatsbrewin.biz/ What's Brewin'] - Boulder, Co
* [http://www.oldwestbrew.com/ Old West Brew Supplies] - Colorado Springs, CO
* [http://www.myhomebrew.com/ My Home Brew Shop] - Colorado Springs, CO
* [http://www.beerathome.com/ Beer and Wine at Home] - Englewood, CO
* [http://www.hopsandberries.com/ Hops & Berries] - Fort Collins, CO
* [http://www.beerathome.com/ Beer and Wine at Home] - Westminster, CO
* [http://stompthemgrapes.com/ Stomp Them Grapes] - Denver, CO
* [http://stompthemgrapes.com/ Hop To It!] - Boulder, CO
* [http://stonicllc.com/ Stonic Home Brew Supplies] - Eastern Colorado
* [http://www.tomsbrewshop.com Tom's Brew Shop] - Lakewood, CO

===Florida===
* [http://www.flagala.net/ Flagala Hardware] - Panama City Beach, FL
* [http://www.bxbeerdepot.com/ BX Beer Depot] - Lake Worth, FL
* [http://justbrewitjax.com/ Just Brew It] - Jacksonville, FL
* [http://www.boothsbrewing.com/ Booth's Brewing] - Tampa, FL

===Georgia===
* [mailto:savhomebrew@comcast.net Savannah Homebrew Shop] - Savannah, GA

===Indiana===
* [http://www.greatfermentations.com Great Fermentations of Indiana] - Indianapolis, IN
* [http://www.valpobrews.com Valpo Brew's] - Valparaiso, IN

===Kentucky===
* [http://www.liquorbarn.com/ LiquorBarn] Louisville and Lexington, KY

===Maryland===
* [http://www.flyingbarrel.com/ The Flying Barrel] - Frederick, MD
* [http://www.mdhb.com/ Maryland HomeBrew] - Columbia, MD

===Minnesota===
* [http://www.northernbrewer.com/ Northern Brewer] - St Paul, MN
* [http://www.ushomebrewsupply.com/ US Homebrew Supply] - Minneapolis, MN

===North Carolina===
* [http://www.ebrew.com/ Alternative Beverage] - Belmont, NC
* [http://www.brewerybusinessplan.com/ Brewery Business Plan] - Huntersville, NC - Selling Completed Brewery Business Plans & Offering Professional Consulting Services

===New Jersey===
* [http://www.brewapp.com/ Brewer's Apprentice] - Freehold, NJ

===Ohio===
* [http://www.hopsshack.com/ The Hops Shack] - Bucyrus, OH
* [http://www.thegrape.net/ The Grape and Granary] - Akron, OH
* [http://www.leeners.com/ Leeners Homebrew Supply] - Cleveland, OH

===Oklahoma===
* [http://www.highgravitybrew.com High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies] - Tulsa, OK

===Pennsylvania===
* [http://www.benshomebrew.com/ Ben's Homebrew] - Tarentum, PA
* [http://www.homesweethomebrew.com/ Home Sweet Homebrew] - Philadelphia, PA
* [http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/ Keystone Homebrew Supply] - Montgomeryville/Bethlehem, PA
* [http://www.lancasterhomebrew.com/ Lancaster Homebrew] - Lancaster, PA
* [http://www.mrsteves.com/ Mr. Steves Home Brew Supplies] - York, PA
* [http://www.readingsodaworks.com/ Reading Soda Works] - Reading, PA
* [http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/ HomeBrew4Less.com LLC]- Chambersburg, PA 17202
* [http://www.winebarleyandhops.com/ Wine Barley & Hops Homebrew Supply] - Feasterville, PA
* [The Brewlab] - Allentown, PA

===Tennessee===
* [http://www.CreateaWine.com/ Create-a-Wine & Brew Too]- Tullahoma, TN
* [http://www.allseasonsnashville.com/ All Seasons Garden and Brewing Supply Co.] - Nashville, TN
* [http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/ Rebel Brewer] - Goodlettsville, TN
* [http://www.fermentstation.com/ Ferment Station] - Knoxville, TN

===Texas===
* [http://www.austinhomebrew.com Austin Homebrew Supply] - Austin, TX
* [http://www.kegcowboy.com/ Keg Cowboy Brewing & Dispensing Equipment] - Houston, TX

===Virginia===
* [http://blueridgehydroponics.com/ Blue Ridge Hydroponics and & Home Brewing] - Roanoke, VA
* [http://www.fermentationtrap.com/ Fermentation Trap] - Charlottesville, VA
* [http://www.jaysbrewing.com/ Jay's Brewing] - Clifton, VA

===Washington===
* [http://www.homebrewheaven.com/ Homebrew Heaven] - Everett, WA
* [http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/ Yakima Hops and Brew Supply] - Yakima, WA

==Commercial and Wholesale Suppliers==
Listed alphabetically:
* [https://affordablestainless.com/ Affordable Stainless Wholesale] - Wholesale Brewing Equipment
* [http://www.blichmannengineering.com/ Blichmann Engineering] - The finest Brew Pots, Fermentors and Accessories.
* [http://www.brewerssupplygroup.com/ Brewers Supply Group]
* [http://www.brewerybusinessplan.com/ Brewery Business Plan] - Offering the most comprehensive brewery business plan on the web and professional consulting services
* [http://www.briess.com/ Briess Malt & Ingredients Company]
* [http://www.schreiermalt.com/home.html Cargill Malt]
* [http://www.coopers.com.au/ Coopers]
* [http://www.hopsdirect.com/ Hops Direct]
* [http://www.hopsteiner.com/ Hopsteiner Hops]
* [http://www.hopunion.com/ Hop Union]
* [http://www.listermann.com/ Listermann Manufacturing]
* [http://www.muntons.com/ Muntons PLC]
* [http://www.polarware.com/ PolarWare Brewpots]
* [http://www.weyermann.de/usa/index.asp?sprache=10 Weyermann Malts]
* [http://www.whitelabs.com/ White Labs Yeast]
* [http://www.wyeastlab.com/ Wyeast Labs Yeast]
* [http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/ Yakima Valley Hops]

==See Also==
* [[References]]
* [[Equipment]]
* [[Ingredients]]

[[Category:Suppliers]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Suppliers

2016-02-28T22:50:37Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by Jhiester (talk) to last revision by Jdlev

{{Portal|name=Suppliers}}
A variety of shops, online stores, and wholesale suppliers are available to help you create your favorite homebrew or craftbrew. This article includes just a few of the thousands available.

==Online Suppliers==
A listing of suppliers with online catalogs and order forms. Listed alphabetically.
* [http://www.homebrewing.org Adventures in Homebrewing]
* [http://www.austinhomebrew.com/ Austin Homebrew Supply]
* [http://barleyhaven.com/ Barley Haven]
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer]
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Recipe Software]
* [http://beertobrew.com Beer To Brew]
* [http://www.bvrgelements.com/ Beverage Elements Kegging Equipment]
* [http://www.bxbeerdepot.com/ BX Beer Depot]
* [http://www.freshops.com/ Freshhops.com]
* [http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies]
* [http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/ HomeBrew4Less.com]
* [http://www.homebrewheaven.com/ Homebrew Heaven]
* [http://www.homebrewing.com/ Home Brewing]
* [http://www.homebrewmart.com/ Home Brew Mart]
* [http://www.thehomebrewstore.com/ Home Brew Supply, LLC]
* [http://www.hopsandberries.com/ Hops & Berries]
* [http://www.kegcowboy.com/ Keg Cowboy Brewing & Dispensing Equipment]
* [http://www.leeners.com/ Leeners Homebrew Supply]
* [http://www.maltytasking.com/ Malty Tasking, LLC]
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ Midwest Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies]
* [http://www.northernbrewer.com/ Northern Brewer]
* [http://www.paddockwood.com/ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies]
* [http://www.thebrewhut.com The Brew Hut]
* [http://www.ushomebrewsupply.com/ US Homebrew Supply]
* [http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Williams Brewing]
* [http://www.jaysbrewing.com/ Jay's Brewing]

==Brewing Software Suppliers==
Software for formulating recipes and performing brewing calculations.
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Brewing Software]
* [http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/ Brewtarget]
* [http://www.promash.com ProMash Brewing Software]
* [http://www.strangebrew.ca StrangeBrew Brewing Software]
* [http://www.usermode.org/code.html Qbrew] - Cross-Platform, Open Source Brewing Software

== Local Brewing Suppliers by State & Country==
Listed by state and city or country if appropriate.
===California===
* [http://www.brewsupply.com/ Culver City Home Brewing Supply] - Culver City, CA
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Concord
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Riverside
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Los Altos
* [http://www.homebrewmart.com/ Home Brew Mart] - San Diego, CA
* [http://www.osheabrewing.com/ O'shea Brewing Company] - Irvine, CA
* [http://www.sfbrewcraft.com/ San Francisco Brewcraft] - San Francisco, CA
* [http://www.steinfillers.com/ Stein Fillers] - Long Beach
* [http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Williams Brewing] - San Leandro, CA

===Colorado===
* [http://barleyhaven.com/ Barley Haven ] - Lakewood, CO
* [http://www.thebrewhut.com/ The Brew Hut] - Aurora, CO
* [http://www.whatsbrewin.biz/ What's Brewin'] - Boulder, Co
* [http://www.oldwestbrew.com/ Old West Brew Supplies] - Colorado Springs, CO
* [http://www.myhomebrew.com/ My Home Brew Shop] - Colorado Springs, CO
* [http://www.beerathome.com/ Beer and Wine at Home] - Englewood, CO
* [http://www.hopsandberries.com/ Hops & Berries] - Fort Collins, CO
* [http://www.beerathome.com/ Beer and Wine at Home] - Westminster, CO
* [http://stompthemgrapes.com/ Stomp Them Grapes] - Denver, CO
* [http://stompthemgrapes.com/ Hop To It!] - Boulder, CO
* [http://stonicllc.com/ Stonic Home Brew Supplies] - Eastern Colorado
* [http://www.tomsbrewshop.com Tom's Brew Shop] - Lakewood, CO

===Florida===
* [http://www.flagala.net/ Flagala Hardware] - Panama City Beach, FL
* [http://www.bxbeerdepot.com/ BX Beer Depot] - Lake Worth, FL
* [http://justbrewitjax.com/ Just Brew It] - Jacksonville, FL
* [http://www.boothsbrewing.com/ Booth's Brewing] - Tampa, FL

===Georgia===
* [mailto:savhomebrew@comcast.net Savannah Homebrew Shop] - Savannah, GA

===Indiana===
* [http://www.greatfermentations.com Great Fermentations of Indiana] - Indianapolis, IN
* [http://www.valpobrews.com Valpo Brew's] - Valparaiso, IN

===Kentucky===
* [http://www.liquorbarn.com/ LiquorBarn] Louisville and Lexington, KY

===Maryland===
* [http://www.flyingbarrel.com/ The Flying Barrel] - Frederick, MD
* [http://www.mdhb.com/ Maryland HomeBrew] - Columbia, MD

===Minnesota===
* [http://www.northernbrewer.com/ Northern Brewer] - St Paul, MN
* [http://www.ushomebrewsupply.com/ US Homebrew Supply] - Minneapolis, MN

===North Carolina===
* [http://www.ebrew.com/ Alternative Beverage] - Belmont, NC
* [http://www.brewerybusinessplan.com/ Brewery Business Plan] - Huntersville, NC - Selling Completed Brewery Business Plans & Offering Professional Consulting Services

===New Jersey===
* [http://www.brewapp.com/ Brewer's Apprentice] - Freehold, NJ

===Ohio===
* [http://www.hopsshack.com/ The Hops Shack] - Bucyrus, OH
* [http://www.thegrape.net/ The Grape and Granary] - Akron, OH
* [http://www.leeners.com/ Leeners Homebrew Supply] - Cleveland, OH

===Oklahoma===
* [http://www.highgravitybrew.com High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies] - Tulsa, OK

===Pennsylvania===
* [http://www.benshomebrew.com/ Ben's Homebrew] - Tarentum, PA
* [http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/ HomeBrew4Less.com LLC]- Chambersburg, PA 17202
* [http://www.homesweethomebrew.com/ Home Sweet Homebrew] - Philadelphia, PA
* [http://www.lancasterhomebrew.com/ Lancaster Homebrew] - Lancaster, PA
* [http://www.mrsteves.com/ Mr. Steves Home Brew Supplies] - York, PA
* [http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/ Keystone Homebrew Supply] - Montgomeryville/Bethlehem, PA
* [http://www.winebarleyandhops.com/ Wine Barley & Hops Homebrew Supply] - Feasterville, PA
* [The Brewlab] - Allentown, PA

===Tennessee===
* [http://www.CreateaWine.com/ Create-a-Wine & Brew Too]- Tullahoma, TN
* [http://www.allseasonsnashville.com/ All Seasons Garden and Brewing Supply Co.] - Nashville, TN
* [http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/ Rebel Brewer] - Goodlettsville, TN
* [http://www.fermentstation.com/ Ferment Station] - Knoxville, TN

===Texas===
* [http://www.austinhomebrew.com Austin Homebrew Supply] - Austin, TX
* [http://www.kegcowboy.com/ Keg Cowboy Brewing & Dispensing Equipment] - Houston, TX

===Virginia===
* [http://blueridgehydroponics.com/ Blue Ridge Hydroponics and & Home Brewing] - Roanoke, VA
* [http://www.fermentationtrap.com/ Fermentation Trap] - Charlottesville, VA
* [http://www.jaysbrewing.com/ Jay's Brewing] - Clifton, VA

===Washington===
* [http://www.homebrewheaven.com/ Homebrew Heaven] - Everett, WA
* [http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/ Yakima Hops and Brew Supply] - Yakima, WA

==Commercial and Wholesale Suppliers==
Listed alphabetically:
* [https://affordablestainless.com/ Affordable Stainless Wholesale] - Wholesale Brewing Equipment
* [http://www.blichmannengineering.com/ Blichmann Engineering] - The finest Brew Pots, Fermentors and Accessories.
* [http://www.brewerssupplygroup.com/ Brewers Supply Group]
* [http://www.brewerybusinessplan.com/ Brewery Business Plan] - Offering the most comprehensive brewery business plan on the web and professional consulting services
* [http://www.briess.com/ Briess Malt & Ingredients Company]
* [http://www.schreiermalt.com/home.html Cargill Malt]
* [http://www.coopers.com.au/ Coopers]
* [http://www.hopsdirect.com/ Hops Direct]
* [http://www.hopsteiner.com/ Hopsteiner Hops]
* [http://www.hopunion.com/ Hop Union]
* [http://www.listermann.com/ Listermann Manufacturing]
* [http://www.muntons.com/ Muntons PLC]
* [http://www.polarware.com/ PolarWare Brewpots]
* [http://www.weyermann.de/usa/index.asp?sprache=10 Weyermann Malts]
* [http://www.whitelabs.com/ White Labs Yeast]
* [http://www.wyeastlab.com/ Wyeast Labs Yeast]
* [http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/ Yakima Valley Hops]

==See Also==
* [[References]]
* [[Equipment]]
* [[Ingredients]]

[[Category:Suppliers]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Brewing Your First Beer

2015-09-02T15:48:57Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by Moltqa (talk) to last revision by BrewWiki

{{BrewWiki Title|name=Brewing Your First Beer}}
Brewing at home for the first time? This simple guide takes you through your first batch of beer including what's needed, how to brew and how to bottle. A short guide for the new homebrewer on how to brew your first [[Extract|extract]] beer!

Author's Note: John Palmer and Brad Smith have a new [http://beersmith.com/dvd "How to Brew with Malt Extract"] video/DVD which walks you through step by step brewing your first batch of beer, and is highly recommended for beginners.
<table align=right><td></td></table>

===Equipment Needed===
You don't need a large set of fancy and expensive equipment to brew your first batch of beer. Many brewing supply stores sell starter kits for $75 or less. It can cost much less if you can borrow some or all the equipment from a friend. Here's a quick summary of what is needed:

* '''A Large Pot''' - at least 3 gallons in size, though a larger one will generally result in fewer spills
* '''Tubing & Clamp''' - to siphon the beer - most common is 3/8" ID food grade plastic tubing. Clamps are available at your brew store.
* '''An Airtight Fermentor''' - a 5 gal plastic bucket with lid, or a glass carboy. If you can afford it, purchase a glass carboy as they are easier to clean and don't leak. If you get a carboy you may need a large brush to clean it
* '''An Air Lock and Stopper''' - sized to fit your fermentor
* '''A Bottle Filler''' - available from your homebrew supplier - should be sized to fit your tubing
* '''A Thermometer''' - with a range of 0-100 C or up from 32-220 F
* '''Bottles''' - You need just over 2 cases in 12 oz bottles to bottle your beer. Do not use twist off bottles - get the bottles that you have to pry the lid off.
* '''Bottle Brush''' - While not absolutely required, you usually need a good brush to get your bottles clean
* '''A Bottle Capper''' - a hand driven device to cap your bottles
* '''Bottle Caps''' - New bottle caps sold at your brewing supplier - you need about 50 caps for a 5 gal batch
* '''A Sterilizing solution''' - Household bleach can be used, but it must be thoroughly rinsed to prevent contamination. Your brew store may also have other alternatives such as iodophor and starsan that also sterilize well.

You can purchase many of these items at your local brew stores or online. As you get more experienced you can expand on these kits or purchase more experienced kits from other sites.

===Ingredients Needed===
The list below assumes you want to brew 5 gallons of a simple ale. You can use [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith] to formulate your own recipe or download recipes from our recipe page if you are looking for a different style.

* '''6-7 lbs of Unhopped Pale Malt Extract''' - Usually this comes in cans that are 3-3.3 lbs each. Malt provides the sweet base that the yeast will feed on to make alcohol. Available from various manufacturers.
* '''2 Oz of East Kent Goldings Hops''' - Hops add bitterness to your beer. Pellets are most common and easy to store.
* '''1 Package of Wyeast American Ale liquid Yeast (#1056)''' [ or White Labs California Ale #WLP001 or Safbrew US-56 dry yeast]
* '''2/3 cup Priming Sugar''' - such as corn sugar. Also available from your brew store or grocer.

==The Extract Brewing Process==
[[Extract Brewing|Extract brewing]] consists of five stages:

# Brewing the Beer - The pale malt [[Extract|extract]] and [[Hops|hops]] are boiled together with water for about an hour to sterilize the extract and release the bittering qualities of the hops. Frequently grains are steeped in the mixture prior to the boil to add additional color and flavor complexity.
# Cooling and Fermenting - The hot mixture (called [[wort]]) is cooled to room temperature and siphoned or transferred to a fermentor where it is combined with additional water to achieve the desired 5 gallon batch size. Once the mixture drops to room temperature, yeast is added to start the fermentation process. Cleanliness and sterilization are very important since the wort can be easily infected by bacteria while in this state. An airlock is used to keep the fermentor sealed during fermentation. Your beer will ferment for 1-2 weeks.
# Priming and Bottling - Once the beer is fully fermented, it is usually siphoned to another container to prepare for bottling. Here priming sugars such as corn sugar are mixed with the beer, and then it is siphoned into bottles and each bottle is capped with a bottle capping device.
# Aging - Once the beer has been bottled it needs to age for 2-6 weeks. During aging the yeast will ferment the remaining sugar you added and create carbon dioxide. This carbon dioxide will naturally carbonate your beer so it is nice and bubbly. In addition, undesirable sediments such as excess yeast and proteins will drop out of the beer during aging and this will enhance the flavor of your beer. In some cases it may take several months to reach peak flavor, though it is usually drinkable after a month.
# Drinking - When the beer is properly aged - just put the bottles in the fridge and enjoy! There's nothing quite like a great beer that you made yourself.

==Extract Brewing==
Brew day is my favorite part of the process. The smell of sweet wort bubbling away stirs something primeval in the human psyche. Since we are brewing a relatively simple extract beer, there is not much to set up. You need a clean pot large enough to hold 2 gallons of water plus the two cans (6 lbs of extract) and boil it (I recommend a 4-5 gallon pot if you can find one). Put 2 gallons of water into your pot and begin to heat it over your stove. Once the water has heated up a bit, open your cans of extract and slowly start mixing them into the warm water. The malt extract will have the consistency of heavy syrup, and you may need some hot water to get it all out of the sides of the can. The combined water and extract mixture is called "wort."

As you are adding the malt extract to your wort, you need to continuously mix it. If you do not mix it, the extract syrup will have a tendency to settle at the bottom of your pot where it will heat and caramelize, leaving a hardened caramel mess at the bottom of your pot. This carmelization can also alter the color and flavor of your beer, so it is important to mix well while heating.
Once you have all of your extract mixed in, the next step is to bring your wort to a boil. This is best done slowly, as your wort will tend to bubble up a lot when it first starts to boil. The water you used for your brew has a lot of air in it, and these small air bubbles will be released as it comes to a boil creating foaming and a high potential for a boil-over. The best way to avoid a boil-over it to turn the heat down a bit as the wort just begins to boil, and then very carefully manage the heat during the first 15 minutes of the boil until you have a steady boil with minimal foaming. Also, do NOT use a cover on your pot! While a covered pot will come to a boil quicker, the first time you open the pot it will boil over immediately - making a huge mess of your stove.

Once you achieve a steady boil it is time to add the hops. Weigh the proper amount and drop it in the hot wort. Some brewers use a mesh hops bag to reduce the mess later, but if you can cool your beer quickly most of the hops will drop out after the boil. Stir occasionally during the boil to reduce the chance of extract settling to the bottom and carmelizing. I recommend you boil for 60 minutes. Boil time will affect your hop utilization and beer bitterness, but this particular batch is sized for a 60 minute boil time.

==Cool and Ferment==
Once your boil has finished, you want to cool the hot wort to room temperature as quickly as possible to reduce the chance of infection. Many beginning brewers immerse their pot in a cold ice bath. Adding very cold water to the wort to bring it up to your target batch size (usually 5 gallons) will also help. More advanced brewers will use a chiller such as an immersion coil that runs cold water through a coil of copper tubing to quickly cool the beer. If needed, add water to the wort when you transfer it to your fermentor to achieve the target volume of 5 gallons.

The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized. I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment. However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.

Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast. Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation. Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast. I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast. Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack. The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort. The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter. Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor. Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.

Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week. If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock. Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks. The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion. Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling. As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.

==Priming and Bottling==
The final step before bottling your beer is called priming. Priming consists of mixing sugar in with the beer to promote fermentation after bottling. A small amount of priming sugar will ferment and carbonate your beer.

Before you can prime and bottle, you again need to sterilize everything the beer will touch. Though your beer has fermented out, it still can be ruined by bacteria or by adding too much oxygen to it (i.e. don't splash it around). Most brewers use a large plastic bucket or carboy to make it easy to mix the priming sugar in evenly. Sterilize the bucket thoroughly, and also sterilize your siphoning equipment, tools and of course your bottles. Make sure your bottles are clean of debris before sterilizing - use a bottle brush to remove any deposits. Some people sterilize bottles by soaking them in a weak bleach solution and then rinsing well. I've also had some success with sterilizing my bottles in the dishwasher, but you need to run it several times with no soap and hot water to avoid leaving a soap residue that will ruin the head retention on your beer.

Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in. Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler. Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation. Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.

==Aging==
The most difficult part by far is waiting for your beer to come of age. While most beers are drinkable after a few weeks, the average homebrew reaches peak flavor anywhere from 8 weeks to 15 weeks after brewing. Most homebrewers simply can't wait this long. During the aging process your beer will carbonate and excess yeast, tannins and proteins that create off flavors will fall out of your beer and settle to the bottom of the bottle. This will substantially improve your beer. I personally recommend waiting about 3-4 weeks after bottling before sampling your first brew.

Store your bottles in a cool, dark place. Unless you are brewing a lager under temperature controlled conditions, do not store your beer in the refrigerator for the first two weeks. Give it two weeks to fully carbonate at room temperature. After the first two weeks, refrigerating the beer will help it improve more quickly because the tannins, yeast and protein will sediment faster at cold temperature.

==Drinking==
The blessed day has finally arrived to sample your creation. During the aging process excess yeast, tannins and proteins will settle to the bottom of your bottle. Get a clean glass, open your brew, and gently pour most of your beer into the glass leaving only the sediment and a small amount of beer in your bottle. Don't worry if you take a little sediment into the glass - it won't hurt you though it may not improve the taste of your brew. Smell the fresh beer, admire the frothy head, and then sip (don't guzzle) your first homebrew and enjoy! As always, please drink responsibly.

==See Also==
*[[Processes|More on the Brewing Process]]
* [[Extract Brewing]]
* [[Tips for Better Beer]]
* [[Moving to All Grain]]

==External Links==
* [http://www.beersmith.com/blog BeerSmith Blog] - Weekly Home Brewing Articles
* [http://www.brewpoll.com BrewPoll Home Brewing News] - Social News Site on Brewing and Beer
* [http://www.howtobrew.com/ How to Brew by John Palmer]
* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]
* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]
* [http://www.homebrewguide.info Home Brew Guide] - PDF Guide on Home Brewing + 640 Recipes
[[Category: processes]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Suppliers

2015-05-29T14:15:19Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by KellerBrauer (talk) to last revision by Valpobrews

{{Portal|name=Suppliers}}
A variety of shops, online stores, and wholesale suppliers are available to help you create your favorite homebrew or craftbrew. This article includes just a few of the thousands available.

==Online Suppliers==
A listing of suppliers with online catalogs and order forms. Listed alphabetically.
* [http://www.homebrewing.org Adventures in Homebrewing]
* [http://www.austinhomebrew.com/ Austin Homebrew Supply]
* [http://barleyhaven.com/ Barley Haven]
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer]
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Recipe Software]
* [http://beertobrew.com Beer To Brew]
* [http://www.bvrgelements.com/ Beverage Elements Kegging Equipment]
* [http://www.bxbeerdepot.com/ BX Beer Depot]
* [http://www.freshops.com/ Freshhops.com]
* [http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies]
* [http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/ HomeBrew4Less.com]
* [http://www.homebrewheaven.com/ Homebrew Heaven]
* [http://www.homebrewing.com/ Home Brewing]
* [http://www.homebrewmart.com/ Home Brew Mart]
* [http://www.thehomebrewstore.com/ Home Brew Supply, LLC]
* [http://www.hopsandberries.com/ Hops & Berries]
* [http://www.kegcowboy.com/ Keg Cowboy Brewing & Dispensing Equipment]
* [http://www.leeners.com/ Leeners Homebrew Supply]
* [http://www.maltytasking.com/ Malty Tasking, LLC]
* [http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ Midwest Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies]
* [http://www.northernbrewer.com/ Northern Brewer]
* [http://www.paddockwood.com/ Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies]
* [http://www.thebrewhut.com The Brew Hut]
* [http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Williams Brewing]
* [http://www.jaysbrewing.com/ Jay's Brewing]

==Brewing Software Suppliers==
Software for formulating recipes and performing brewing calculations.
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Brewing Software]
* [http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/ Brewtarget]
* [http://www.promash.com ProMash Brewing Software]
* [http://www.strangebrew.ca StrangeBrew Brewing Software]
* [http://www.usermode.org/code.html Qbrew] - Cross-Platform, Open Source Brewing Software

== Local Brewing Suppliers by State & Country==
Listed by state and city or country if appropriate.
===California===
* [http://www.brewsupply.com/ Culver City Home Brewing Supply] - Culver City, CA
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Concord
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Riverside
* [http://www.morebeer.com/ Beer, Beer & More Beer] - Los Altos
* [http://www.homebrewmart.com/ Home Brew Mart] - San Diego, CA
* [http://www.osheabrewing.com/ O'shea Brewing Company] - Irvine, CA
* [http://www.sfbrewcraft.com/ San Francisco Brewcraft] - San Francisco, CA
* [http://www.steinfillers.com/ Stein Fillers] - Long Beach
* [http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ Williams Brewing] - San Leandro, CA

===Colorado===
* [http://barleyhaven.com/ Barley Haven ] - Lakewood, CO
* [http://www.thebrewhut.com/ The Brew Hut] - Aurora, CO
* [http://www.whatsbrewin.biz/ What's Brewin'] - Boulder, Co
* [http://www.oldwestbrew.com/ Old West Brew Supplies] - Colorado Springs, CO
* [http://www.myhomebrew.com/ My Home Brew Shop] - Colorado Springs, CO
* [http://www.beerathome.com/ Beer and Wine at Home] - Englewood, CO
* [http://www.hopsandberries.com/ Hops & Berries] - Fort Collins, CO
* [http://www.beerathome.com/ Beer and Wine at Home] - Westminster, CO
* [http://stompthemgrapes.com/ Stomp Them Grapes] - Denver, CO
* [http://stompthemgrapes.com/ Hop To It!] - Boulder, CO
* [http://stonicllc.com/ Stonic Home Brew Supplies] - Eastern Colorado
* [http://www.tomsbrewshop.com Tom's Brew Shop] - Lakewood, CO

===Florida===
* [http://www.flagala.net/ Flagala Hardware] - Panama City Beach, FL
* [http://www.bxbeerdepot.com/ BX Beer Depot] - Lake Worth, FL
* [http://justbrewitjax.com/ Just Brew It] - Jacksonville, FL
* [http://www.boothsbrewing.com/ Booth's Brewing] - Tampa, FL

===Georgia===
* [mailto:savhomebrew@comcast.net Savannah Homebrew Shop] - Savannah, GA

===Indiana===
* [http://www.greatfermentations.com Great Fermentations of Indiana] - Indianapolis, IN
* [http://www.valpobrews.com Valpo Brew's] - Valparaiso, IN

===Kentucky===
* [http://www.liquorbarn.com/ LiquorBarn] Louisville and Lexington, KY

===Maryland===
* [http://www.flyingbarrel.com/ The Flying Barrel] - Frederick, MD
* [http://www.mdhb.com/ Maryland HomeBrew] - Columbia, MD

===Minnesota===
* [http://www.northernbrewer.com/ Northern Brewer] - St Paul, MN

===North Carolina===
* [http://www.ebrew.com/ Alternative Beverage] - Belmont, NC

===New Jersey===
* [http://www.brewapp.com/ Brewer's Apprentice] - Freehold, NJ

===Ohio===
* [http://www.hopsshack.com/ The Hops Shack] - Bucyrus, OH
* [http://www.thegrape.net/ The Grape and Granary] - Akron, OH
* [http://www.leeners.com/ Leeners Homebrew Supply] - Cleveland, OH

===Oklahoma===
* [http://www.highgravitybrew.com High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies] - Tulsa, OK

===Pennsylvania===
* [http://www.benshomebrew.com/ Ben's Homebrew] - Tarentum, PA
* [http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/ HomeBrew4Less.com LLC]- Chambersburg, PA 17202
* [http://www.homesweethomebrew.com/ Home Sweet Homebrew] - Philadelphia, PA
* [http://www.lancasterhomebrew.com/ Lancaster Homebrew] - Lancaster, PA
* [http://www.mrsteves.com/ Mr. Steves Home Brew Supplies] - York, PA
* [http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/ Keystone Homebrew Supply] - Montgomeryville/Bethlehem, PA
* [http://www.winebarleyandhops.com/ Wine Barley & Hops Homebrew Supply] - Feasterville, PA
* [The Brewlab] - Allentown, PA

===Tennessee===
* [http://www.CreateaWine.com/ Create-a-Wine & Brew Too]- Tullahoma, TN
* [http://www.allseasonsnashville.com/ All Seasons Garden and Brewing Supply Co.] - Nashville, TN
* [http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/ Rebel Brewer] - Goodlettsville, TN
* [http://www.fermentstation.com/ Ferment Station] - Knoxville, TN

===Texas===
* [http://www.austinhomebrew.com Austin Homebrew Supply] - Austin, TX
* [http://www.kegcowboy.com/ Keg Cowboy Brewing & Dispensing Equipment] - Houston, TX

===Virginia===
* [http://blueridgehydroponics.com/ Blue Ridge Hydroponics and & Home Brewing] - Roanoke, VA
* [http://www.fermentationtrap.com/ Fermentation Trap] - Charlottesville, VA
* [http://www.jaysbrewing.com/ Jay's Brewing] - Clifton, VA

===Washington===
* [http://www.homebrewheaven.com/ Homebrew Heaven] - Everett, WA
* [http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/ Yakima Hops and Brew Supply] - Yakima, WA

==Commercial and Wholesale Suppliers==
Listed alphabetically:
* [http://www.blichmannengineering.com/ Blichmann Engineering] - The finest Brew Pots, Fermentors and Accessories.
* [http://www.brewerssupplygroup.com/ Brewers Supply Group]
* [http://www.briess.com/ Briess Malt & Ingredients Company]
* [http://www.schreiermalt.com/home.html Cargill Malt]
* [http://www.coopers.com.au/ Coopers]
* [http://www.hopsdirect.com/ Hops Direct]
* [http://www.hopsteiner.com/ Hopsteiner Hops]
* [http://www.hopunion.com/ Hop Union]
* [http://www.listermann.com/ Listermann Manufacturing]
* [http://www.muntons.com/ Muntons PLC]
* [http://www.polarware.com/ PolarWare Brewpots]
* [http://www.weyermann.de/usa/index.asp?sprache=10 Weyermann Malts]
* [http://www.whitelabs.com/ White Labs Yeast]
* [http://www.wyeastlab.com/ Wyeast Labs Yeast]
* [http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/ Yakima Valley Hops]

==See Also==
* [[References]]
* [[Equipment]]
* [[Ingredients]]

[[Category:Suppliers]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy

2012-09-13T18:26:22Z

Jomebrew: Protected "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy" (‎[edit=autoconfirmed] (indefinite) ‎[move=autoconfirmed] (indefinite))

== ''Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy''[http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Beers-Those-Amateur-Winemaker/dp/1854861255/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233944537&sr=1-1] by Dave Line ==

I'd been home winemaking for a while and had just been introduced to and developed a taste for real ale when I came across the original edition of this book. It has a recipe for Greene King Abbot Ale which at the time was my favourite beer but unavailable in Liverpool so purchase was immediate! To cut a long story short this was the start of my full mash grain brewing that I've found to be the most enjoyable hobby. I'm still learning 30 years later!

I found that most of the recipes in this book produced good results although not always that close to the real thing. I know that Dave Line over-estimated the likely efficiencies achievable by home brewers but I don't remember this causing me any great problems at the time. When my extracts came out low I just relaxed, didn't worry and had a homebrew (long before I'd heard of Charlie Papazian) and either accepted a beer a bit low in OG, added some sugar and/or boiled a bit longer. The important thing for me was the delicious end result. It is easy to increase the amount of malt or reduce the target brew length to ensure you hit target OGs if that is a concern for you.

My original copy is very well used, battered, wort-stained and annotated. This seems to be a common feature with this book. My favourite recipes from this book were Greene King Abbot Ale (it never came out like the real thing - it was usually better!), Eldridge Pope Royal Oak (very consistent) and Gibbs Mew Bishops Tipple (this is was a very popular brew with friends and I recommend that every brewer try this recipe at least once - it is a remarkable big beer).

--[[User:LesHowarth|LesHowarth]] 18:26, 6 February 2009 (UTC)

Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy

2012-09-13T18:25:30Z

Jomebrew:

Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy

2012-09-13T18:20:52Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by LolitaMack (talk) to last revision by TiffanyMontoya

== ''Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy''[http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Beers-Those-Amateur-Winemaker/dp/1854861255/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233944537&sr=1-1] by Dave Line ==

I'd been home winemaking for a while and had just been introduced to and developed a taste for real ale when I came across the original edition of this book. It has a recipe for Greene King Abbot Ale which at the time was my favourite beer but unavailable in Liverpool so purchase was immediate! To cut a long story short this was the start of my full mash grain brewing that I've found to be the most enjoyable hobby. I'm still learning 30 years later!

I found that most of the recipes in this book produced good results although not always that close to the real thing. I know that Dave Line over-estimated the likely efficiencies achievable by home brewers but I don't remember this causing me any great problems at the time. When my extracts came out low I just relaxed, didn't worry and had a homebrew (long before I'd heard of Charlie Papazian) and either accepted a beer a bit low in OG, added some sugar and/or boiled a bit longer. One of my friends recommended me to order [http://www.essaysprofessors.com custom writing] on EssaysProfessors.Com. To tell you the truth, I have never regretted my decision. The writers are real professionals and know how to write impressive work full of knowledgeable information. The important thing for me was the delicious end result. It is easy to increase the amount of malt or reduce the target brew length to ensure you hit target OGs if that is a concern for you.

My original copy is very well used, battered, wort-stained and annotated. This seems to be a common feature with this book. My favourite recipes from this book were Greene King Abbot Ale (it never came out like the real thing - it was usually better!), Eldridge Pope Royal Oak (very consistent) and Gibbs Mew Bishops Tipple (this is was a very popular brew with friends and I recommend that every brewer try this recipe at least once - it is a remarkable big beer).

--[[User:LesHowarth|LesHowarth]] 18:26, 6 February 2009 (UTC)

Head Retention

2011-11-05T18:44:50Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by MerylwCollette (talk) to last revision by Cospelero

An important characteristic in beers is the ability of the beer to retain a nice foamy [[head]] for a long period of time. Commercial brewers go to great lengths to improve '''head retention''' by a variety of additives. However homebrewers also have access to quite a few ingredients and additives that can help your foam last until the last drop. Note that enhancing head retention is closely related to [[Body|enhancing the body]] of the beer.

Foam is the result of CO2 bubbles rising through the beer. These bubbles attach themselves to substances in the beer and form a skin around the bubble. Obviously the more CO2, the more bubbles, but the goal of the brewer is not bubbles but stability of the head. As foam collapeses, evaporating bubbles tend to solidify the beer near the surface, allowing more beer to be poured with less foaming after about a few minutes have passed. Head stability depends on the presence of substances with low surface tension in the beer which can form stable elastic bubbles. The two primary contributors to head retention are certain high molecular weight proteins and isohumulones (alpha acids from hops). Therefore beers with more proteins that are highly hopped will have a higher head retention.

==Methods for Improving Head Retention==
We will explore the following possibilities:
* The use of body and head enhancing [[Malt|malts]] such as crystal, wheat, or carafoam
* The altering of the [[Mashing|mash schedule]] to enhance head retaining proteins
* The use of heading agents - additives that enhance head retention
* Addition of high alpha hops - which will increase bitterness, but also increas isohumulones that enhance head retention
* Limiting the use of household soaps on drinking glasses and homebrew equipment
* The use of a nitrogen and CO2 mix for carbonation and serving
* The shape of the glass used to serve the beer

===Head Enhancing Malts===
The inclusion of proteins and dextrines enhance the [[body]] and head retention of finished beer. Unfortunately when used to excess, proteins and dextrines can interact with tannins and reduce clarity and promote cloudiness, so a proper balance must be struck. Crystal malts to include the light Carapils and Carafoam, and caramel malts. These are the most common body and foam enhancing additives that enhance head retention primarily by adding dextrines and other complex proteins. The overuse of such malts can result in proteins reacting with tannins to create a chill haze. Similarly, other grains high in protein such as flaked barley and wheat can be used to enhance head retention, though again at the cost of clarity.

===Mashing Schedule===
Since head retention depends on the level of high molecular weight proteins, any step in the mash that breaks down proteins is undesirable. For example, a protein rest in the 50-60 C (122-140 F) range would not be desirable. To improve head retention you would generally favor a full bodied, higher temperature mash, with main conversion in the 70 C (158 F) range, and avoid intermediate protein rests.

===Heading Agents===
Homebrew shops sell a variety of additives, usually under the generic title ''heading agent''. Some are intended to be added at bottling time, while others need to be added at the end of the boil. Follow the instructions included with the agent to determine what is required. Many heading agents are derived from an enzyme called pepsin that is derived from pork. Other popular heading agents include iron salts, gums, and alginates. All heading agents will alter the flavor of the beer, in general making the character softer. In general, heading agents are not necessary for homebrews that are made from 100% malted barley and wheat. Heading agents are more commonly used in commercial beers that have high rice and corn content, lacking the necessary proteins of an all-malt beer.

===Hops===
As mentioned in the introduction, isohumulones which are a form of alpha acid also will enhance the head retention of beer. Alpha acid is the primary bittering agent in hops. Therefore highly hopped beers will have better head retention. Obviously overall malt-bitterness balance is still required, but one can use higher levels of hops, particularly in darker full bodied beers to enhance head retention.

===Limit Use of Household Soaps===
Household soaps such as common dish soap and dishwashing soap have a significant detrimental effect on head retention in beer. You should not use household soaps on either your brewing equipment or your main bar drinkware. Detergent washed glasses in particular will quickly reduce the head on even a well constructed beer. Instead use a beer-friendly cleaning agent from your local homebrew supplier.

===A Nitrogen Mix===
Some beers, most notably Guiness Irish Stout, are carbonated and poured with a mix of nitrogen and carbon dioxide. CO2 is relatively soluable in beer, and therefore does not promote the formation of gas bubbles as well as non-soluable gasses. Nitrogen dissolves less easily in beer, and provides a better base for forming a stable head. However, nitrogen alters the perceived character of the beer, and use of pure nitrogen would result in an unacceptable mouthfeel and carbonation. A mix, therefore, is always used. The mix varies depending on the style of beer - a low carbonation stout might be served with a mix of 25% carbon dioxide and 75% nitrogen, while ales and lagers might include more CO2 - perhaps 60% CO2 and 40% nitrogen. Low carbon dioxide mixes (25/75) can be applied by mixing the gases in the cylinder, but higher mixes generally require two separate tanks - one of CO2 and one of nitrogen. A high precision blending device either at the tap (i.e. a ''stout tap'') or inline are needed to blend the two gasses for dispensing.

===Shape of Serving Glass===
The shape of the glass is also a determining factor in both head formation and head retention. A tall narrow glass enhances the formation and retention of the head, while short wide glasses do not. This is the reason many Bavarian wheat beers and Pilsners are served in tall narrow glasses. Use the proper glass for the style of beer you are pouring to enhance the overall presentation.

==See Also==
* [[Technical|Technical Reference]]
* [[Body|Enhancing Body]]
* [[Mashing]]

==External Links==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guinness Guiness Stout on Wikipedia]

[[Category:Technical]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Mashing

2011-10-05T14:57:16Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by AWild43 (talk) to last revision by Adam Adom

[[image:Mash_tun.jpg|right|thumb|A Simple Mash Tun]]
''Mashing'' is a step in the [[Processes|brewing process]] that combines crushed [[Malts]] with hot water in a [[Mash Tun|mash tun]] to convert complex starches into simple sugars that are more readily fermented. There are many variations of mashing, but the ''single infusion mash'' described below is easily done with home equipment, and suitable for most popular beer styles. During the [[Malting Process|malting process]] barley grains develop many enzymes that are needed for mashing. These enzymes, when heated with water in the ''mash'', react with the starches in the malt and produce ''maltose''. Maltose is a favorite food for yeast during fermentation. After the mashing process, hot water is used to extract the sugars from the grain in a process called [[sparging]] to produce a sweet liquid called ''[[wort]]'' for brewing.

==Types of Mashing==
The most popular mash profile among homebrewers is the single infusion mash, but several methods can be used to mash and all are accessible by the homebrewer.

===Single Infusion Mash===
The Single Infusion Mash, also called the ''British Infusion Mash'' is the simplest mashing method for homebrewers to use. In an infusion mash, room temperature crushed grains are combined with a premeasured amount of hot water at a fixed temperature. By accurately calculating the volume and temperature of the water, one can reach a target temperature for the combined mash in the 148 to 158 F range (64.5-70 C). Infusion is typically done at a water to grain ratio of around 1.25 quarts per pound of grain (1.3 liter per 500g of grain). The easiest way to calculate the proper infusion volume and temperature is with an infusion calculator or brewing software such as [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith]. The mash is then held at that temperature usually by keeping the mash in an insulated cooler for 45-90 minutes. At this temperature, the mash will readily convert starches into sugars. You can test for conversion of sugars using an ''iodine test''. Simply draw a small quantity of mashed grains out, add a few drops of iodine to it. If the iodine does not turn blue, then the conversion is complete.

===Temperature Mash===
An alternative to the infusion mash is the temperature mash. Rather than adding a known quantity of hot water, the mixed water and grains are simply raised to the target mashing temperature and held at that temperature until the starch conversion is complete. While this is quite practical for a commercial brewer, temperature mashing presents challenges to home brewers. Most homebrewers use simple pots over a stove or propane burner, and it is difficult to hold a precise mashing temperature for an extended period using just a stove and pot.

===Decoction Mash===
A third technique traditionally used in Germany for many beer styles is decoction mashing. In a decoction mash, a quantity of mash including both grains and water is moved to a second container where it is brought to a boil. The boiling mixture is then added back to the original mash to raise the temperature of the overall mash. Again, a calculator or brewing software is needed to accurately calculate the correct volume to decoct. Traditional decoctions were typically done at higher water to grain ratios of 2.0 qt/lb or more. More modern techniques often use water to grain ratios closer to the 1.25-1.5 qt/lb range.

===Multiple Step Mashes===
Though a single infusion mash is suitable in 95% of cases where modern well modified malts are used, some precooked adjuncts and undermodified malts require protein rests at lower temperature before the main ''saccrification'' (sugar conversion) step in the mash profile. These protein rests help to break down complex starches in preparation for saccrification. Infusion, temperature and decoction steps may be combined to achieve multiple step mashes. For example a complex three step decoction mash might start with an initial infusion step to an acid rest at 105 F, followed by a protein rest at 122 F, and a saccrification step at 155 F. In many mash profiles, a ''mash out'' step is used to raise the temperature of the entire grain bed in preparation for sparging. The mash out step helps to halt saccirifcation, and also helps ensure an efficient sparge by extracting sugars at a higher temperature.

==Mash Temperature==
The temperature of mash steps, particularly the main sugar conversion (called the ''saccrification'' step) can have a significant effect on the character of the beer. Lower temperature conversion - around 148-152 F will take longer but will produce a more complete conversion of complex starches to sugars resulting in more fermentation and a clean, lighter tasting beer. A high temperature conversion of 155-158 F (68.5-70 C) will result in less starch conversion leaving a beer with more unfermentable dextrines. This will create a beer with a full body and flavor. Middle mash temperatures (153-156 F / 67.69 C) will result in medium bodied beers.

The [[Acid Rest]], a step done early in the mash around 95F (35C) is performed by some traditional brewers to lower the pH of the mash. This was primarily done in very soft water locations like Pilsen that lacked minerals needed to acidify the mash. However modern brewers using most waters do not need to perform this step. Proper minerals and pH adjustment, highly modified grains, and a much better understanding of water chemistry have largely eliminated the need for an acid rest.

==Sparging==
After the mash process is complete, the grains, water and sugar are still in suspension in the mash tun. The sugars are separated from the grains in a process called ''[[sparging]]'' (alternately called ''[[lautering]]'') to produce [[wort|sweet wort]]. The wort is then [[Boiling|boiled]] and [[Fermentation|fermented]] to produce beer.

==See Also==
* [[Processes|Brewing Processes]]
* [[Sparging]]
* [[Mash Tun]]

==External Links==
* [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith Brewing Software] - a tool that will do your infusion and decoction calculations
* [http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/03/05/all-grain-beer-brewing-with-an-infusion-mash-setup/ All Grain Brewing with an Infusion Mash Setup] - on the BeerSmith blog

[[Category:Processes]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

[[fr:Brassage]]

Brewing Your First Beer

2011-10-05T14:57:13Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by AWild43 (talk) to last revision by Cmurtaugh

{{BrewWiki Title|name=Brewing Your First Beer}}
Brewing at home for the first time? This simple guide takes you through your first batch of beer including what's needed, how to brew and how to bottle. A short guide for the new homebrewer on how to brew your first [[Extract|extract]] beer!
<table align=right><td>[[image:Beer_mug.png]]</td></table>

===Equipment Needed===
You don't need a large set of fancy and expensive equipment to brew your first batch of beer. Many brewing supply stores sell starter kits for $75 or less. It can cost much less if you can borrow some or all the equipment from a friend. Here's a quick summary of what is needed:

* '''A Large Pot''' - at least 3 gallons in size, though a larger one will generally result in fewer spills
* '''Tubing & Clamp''' - to siphon the beer - most common is 3/8" ID food grade plastic tubing. Clamps are available at your brew store.
* '''An Airtight Fermentor''' - a 5 gal plastic bucket with lid, or a glass carboy. If you can afford it, purchase a glass carboy as they are easier to clean and don't leak. If you get a carboy you may need a large brush to clean it
* '''An Air Lock and Stopper''' - sized to fit your fermentor
* '''A Bottle Filler''' - available from your homebrew supplier - should be sized to fit your tubing
* '''A Thermometer''' - with a range of 0-100 C or up from 32-220 F
* '''Bottles''' - You need just over 2 cases in 12 oz bottles to bottle your beer. Do not use twist off bottles - get the bottles that you have to pry the lid off.
* '''Bottle Brush''' - While not absolutely required, you usually need a good brush to get your bottles clean
* '''A Bottle Capper''' - a hand driven device to cap your bottles
* '''Bottle Caps''' - New bottle caps sold at your brewing supplier - you need about 50 caps for a 5 gal batch
* '''A Sterilizing solution''' - Household bleach can be used, but it must be thoroughly rinsed to prevent contamination. Your brew store may also have other alternatives such as iodophor and starsan that also sterilize well.

You can purchase many of these items at your local brew stores or online. Some websites such as [http://www.makebeer.net Makebeer.net] offer great starter kits. As you get more experienced you can expand on these kits or purchase more experienced kits from other sites.

===Ingredients Needed===
The list below assumes you want to brew 5 gallons of a simple ale. You can use [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith] to formulate your own recipe or download recipes from our recipe page if you are looking for a different style.

* '''6-7 lbs of Unhopped Pale Malt Extract''' - Usually this comes in cans that are 3-3.3 lbs each. Malt provides the sweet base that the yeast will feed on to make alcohol. Available from various manufacturers.
* '''2 Oz of East Kent Goldings Hops''' - Hops add bitterness to your beer. Pellets are most common and easy to store.
* '''1 Package of Wyeast American Ale liquid Yeast (#1056)''' [ or White Labs California Ale #WLP001 or Safbrew US-56 dry yeast]
* '''2/3 cup Priming Sugar''' - such as corn sugar. Also available from your brew store or grocer.

==The Extract Brewing Process==
[[Extract Brewing|Extract brewing]] consists of five stages:

# Brewing the Beer - The pale malt [[Extract|extract]] and [[Hops|hops]] are boiled together with water for about an hour to sterilize the extract and release the bittering qualities of the hops. Frequently grains are steeped in the mixture prior to the boil to add additional color and flavor complexity.
# Cooling and Fermenting - The hot mixture (called [[wort]]) is cooled to room temperature and siphoned or transferred to a fermentor where it is combined with additional water to achieve the desired 5 gallon batch size. Once the mixture drops to room temperature, yeast is added to start the fermentation process. Cleanliness and sterilization are very important since the wort can be easily infected by bacteria while in this state. An airlock is used to keep the fermentor sealed during fermentation. Your beer will ferment for 1-2 weeks.
# Priming and Bottling - Once the beer is fully fermented, it is usually siphoned to another container to prepare for bottling. Here priming sugars such as corn sugar are mixed with the beer, and then it is siphoned into bottles and each bottle is capped with a bottle capping device.
# Aging - Once the beer has been bottled it needs to age for 2-6 weeks. During aging the yeast will ferment the remaining sugar you added and create carbon dioxide. This carbon dioxide will naturally carbonate your beer so it is nice and bubbly. In addition, undesirable sediments such as excess yeast and proteins will drop out of the beer during aging and this will enhance the flavor of your beer. In some cases it may take several months to reach peak flavor, though it is usually drinkable after a month.
# Drinking - When the beer is properly aged - just put the bottles in the fridge and enjoy! There's nothing quite like a great beer that you made yourself.

==Extract Brewing==
Brew day is my favorite part of the process. The smell of sweet wort bubbling away stirs something primeval in the human psyche. Since we are brewing a relatively simple extract beer, there is not much to set up. You need a clean pot large enough to hold 2 gallons of water plus the two cans (6 lbs of extract) and boil it (I recommend a 4-5 gallon pot if you can find one). Put 2 gallons of water into your pot and begin to heat it over your stove. Once the water has heated up a bit, open your cans of extract and slowly start mixing them into the warm water. The malt extract will have the consistency of heavy syrup, and you may need some hot water to get it all out of the sides of the can. The combined water and extract mixture is called "wort."

As you are adding the malt extract to your wort, you need to continuously mix it. If you do not mix it, the extract syrup will have a tendency to settle at the bottom of your pot where it will heat and caramelize, leaving a hardened caramel mess at the bottom of your pot. This carmelization can also alter the color and flavor of your beer, so it is important to mix well while heating.
Once you have all of your extract mixed in, the next step is to bring your wort to a boil. This is best done slowly, as your wort will tend to bubble up a lot when it first starts to boil. The water you used for your brew has a lot of air in it, and these small air bubbles will be released as it comes to a boil creating foaming and a high potential for a boil-over. The best way to avoid a boil-over it to turn the heat down a bit as the wort just begins to boil, and then very carefully manage the heat during the first 15 minutes of the boil until you have a steady boil with minimal foaming. Also, do NOT use a cover on your pot! While a covered pot will come to a boil quicker, the first time you open the pot it will boil over immediately - making a huge mess of your stove.

Once you achieve a steady boil it is time to add the hops. Weigh the proper amount and drop it in the hot wort. Some brewers use a mesh hops bag to reduce the mess later, but if you can cool your beer quickly most of the hops will drop out after the boil. Stir occasionally during the boil to reduce the chance of extract settling to the bottom and carmelizing. I recommend you boil for 60 minutes. Boil time will affect your hop utilization and beer bitterness, but this particular batch is sized for a 60 minute boil time.

==Cool and Ferment==
Once your boil has finished, you want to cool the hot wort to room temperature as quickly as possible to reduce the chance of infection. Many beginning brewers immerse their pot in a cold ice bath. Adding very cold water to the wort to bring it up to your target batch size (usually 5 gallons) will also help. More advanced brewers will use a chiller such as an immersion coil that runs cold water through a coil of copper tubing to quickly cool the beer. If needed, add water to the wort when you transfer it to your fermentor to achieve the target volume of 5 gallons.

The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized. I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment. However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.

Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast. Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation. Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast. I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast. Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack. The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort. The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter. Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor. Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.

Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week. If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock. Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks. The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion. Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling. As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.

==Priming and Bottling==
The final step before bottling your beer is called priming. Priming consists of mixing sugar in with the beer to promote fermentation after bottling. A small amount of priming sugar will ferment and carbonate your beer.

Before you can prime and bottle, you again need to sterilize everything the beer will touch. Though your beer has fermented out, it still can be ruined by bacteria or by adding too much oxygen to it (i.e. don't splash it around). Most brewers use a large plastic bucket or carboy to make it easy to mix the priming sugar in evenly. Sterilize the bucket thoroughly, and also sterilize your siphoning equipment, tools and of course your bottles. Make sure your bottles are clean of debris before sterilizing - use a bottle brush to remove any deposits. Some people sterilize bottles by soaking them in a weak bleach solution and then rinsing well. I've also had some success with sterilizing my bottles in the dishwasher, but you need to run it several times with no soap and hot water to avoid leaving a soap residue that will ruin the head retention on your beer.

Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in. Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler. Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation. Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.

==Aging==
The most difficult part by far is waiting for your beer to come of age. While most beers are drinkable after a few weeks, the average homebrew reaches peak flavor anywhere from 8 weeks to 15 weeks after brewing. Most homebrewers simply can't wait this long. During the aging process your beer will carbonate and excess yeast, tannins and proteins that create off flavors will fall out of your beer and settle to the bottom of the bottle. This will substantially improve your beer. I personally recommend waiting about 3-4 weeks after bottling before sampling your first brew.

Store your bottles in a cool, dark place. Unless you are brewing a lager under temperature controlled conditions, do not store your beer in the refrigerator for the first two weeks. Give it two weeks to fully carbonate at room temperature. After the first two weeks, refrigerating the beer will help it improve more quickly because the tannins, yeast and protein will sediment faster at cold temperature.

==Drinking==
The blessed day has finally arrived to sample your creation. During the aging process excess yeast, tannins and proteins will settle to the bottom of your bottle. Get a clean glass, open your brew, and gently pour most of your beer into the glass leaving only the sediment and a small amount of beer in your bottle. Don't worry if you take a little sediment into the glass - it won't hurt you though it may not improve the taste of your brew. Smell the fresh beer, admire the frothy head, and then sip (don't guzzle) your first homebrew and enjoy! As always, please drink responsibly.

==See Also==
*[[Processes|More on the Brewing Process]]
* [[Extract Brewing]]
* [[Tips for Better Beer]]
* [[Moving to All Grain]]

==External Links==
* [http://www.beersmith.com/blog BeerSmith Blog] - Weekly Home Brewing Articles
* [http://www.brewpoll.com BrewPoll Home Brewing News] - Social News Site on Brewing and Beer
* [http://www.howtobrew.com/ How to Brew by John Palmer]
* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]
* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]
* [http://www.homebrewguide.info Home Brew Guide] - PDF Guide on Home Brewing + 640 Recipes
[[Category: processes]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

News

2011-10-05T14:57:04Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by AWild43 (talk) to last revision by BrewWiki

__NOTOC__
{{BrewWiki Title|name=News}}
Please list one item per heading with date posted and a link to the article.

=="Digg Like" Home Brewing and Craft Beer News Site - BrewPoll==
Finally a social web 2.0 site dedicated to home brewing and craft beer news. [http://www.brewpoll.com BrewPoll] is a place where you can share your favorite brewing articles and the community gets to vote the best stories to the front page!

== Hops Crisis Continues ==
A nice little article on the ongoing [http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/02/23/homebrew-crisis-where-have-all-the-brewing-hops-gone/ hops crisis] and its causes.

== Weekly Home Brewing Articles from Our Blog ==
BeerSmith put together a [http://www.beersmith.com/blog new blog] with weekly articles on a full range of homebrewing techniques, beer styles, recipes and news.

==Fear not the Beer Belly==
Yes, beer is not the main cause of the dreaded beer belly as [http://www.sundayherald.com/news/heraldnews/display.var.1932845.0.dont_blame_beer_for_that_belly.php this article] clearly explains!

==New AntiSpam Features==
I implemented a "Captcha confirmation" feature on the forum due to excessive spamming. If you create an edit that includes a link you will be asked to confirm it by entering a few characters. This prevents spam bots from polluting the site.

==Pairing Beer with Food==
Interesting article on [http://beerabbey.blogspot.com/2007/01/basic-tips-for-pairing-beer-and-food.html pairing beer with food].

==Beer Ingredient Costs May Rise==
Barley [http://www.marketwatch.com/news/story/beer-prices-may-rise-costs/story.aspx?guid=%7B6B6144F8-5365-4298-A7A2-35E360416C7E%7D prices have been going up] at the wholesale level, which may impact retail prices in the near future.

==Caloric Content of Popular Beers==
A research article detailing the [http://www.rochester.edu/uhs/healthtopics/Alcohol/caloricvalues.html caloric content and alcohol percentage] for many of the world's most popular beers.

==214 Million Gallons of Beer Sold during World Cup in Germany==
Yes, [http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/6277241.stm over 214 million gallons sold] with higher demand during the world cup.

==Over 150 articles online==
BrewWiki is now over 150 articles. Add your own article today! -- [[User:BeerSmith|BeerSmith]]

==Save the Planet - Drink More Beer==
Yes, beer bran can be used to clean polluted water! See the article from NewScientist here: [http://www.newscientist.com/channel/earth/mg19125636.300.html Save the Planet...]

==Explore the Fine World of Beer==
An article from Practical Living on the world of fine beer: [http://www.fineliving.com/fine/practical_living/article/0,,FINE_8068_4883651,00.html Explore the FINE World of Beer]

==Brewing Permit Required in Jersey==
An interesting link right out of the NJ Division of alcoholic beverage control referenced in a HomebrewTalk forum discussion. You need a $10 permit to homebrew beer for non-commercial purposed in New Jersey: [http://www.state.nj.us/oag/abc/faqs.html#CAN NJ Alcohol Division Link] - [[User:BrewWiki|BrewWiki]] 21:17, 22 July 2006 (MDT)

==Most Wanted Page Added==
I added a [[Most Wanted]] page so people can add the articles they would most like to see included in BrewWiki. This will serve as a ''to do list'' for editors and authors to target their work. [[User:BrewWiki|BrewWiki]] 21:03, 17 July 2006 (MDT)

==Join In==
Running over 75 articles now. Wiki has expanded to include the [[:Category:Glossary|Glossary]], a substantial [[BrewWiki:Community Portal|Community Portal]] and much more. We still need your help to publicize the Wiki and also to add articles. Create an account today and help us make this a valuable brewing resource. [[User:BrewWiki|BrewWiki]] 22:18, 11 July 2006 (MDT)

==BrewWiki Created==
[[BrewWiki:About|BrewWiki Created]] - Brad Smith of [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith] created the BeerWiki site as a communal resource for brewers, homebrewers and craft brewers. BrewWiki is a user created encyclopedia for brewing topics. Any registered user can create or edit an article on brewing. BrewWiki is organized into several main portals to make access to brewing information fast and easy. Please see the [[BrewWiki:Community Portal]] if you wish to add an article of your own. - [[User:BrewWiki|BrewWiki]] 13:03, 27 June 2006 (MDT)

==See Also==
* [[Events]]
* [[References|Brewing References]]
* [[Magazines|Brewing Magazines]]

==External Links==
* [http://www.brewpoll.com BrewPoll Home Brewing and Craft Beer News]

[[Category:News]]

Honey

2011-10-05T14:56:56Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by AWild43 (talk) to last revision by Jomebrew

__NOTOC__
Honey is a food product produced by bees from plant nectar. It is a common sweetener, and has many nutritional and antibiotic properties. It is used in beer as either a fermentable sugar or a priming agent. Honey is the primary (or only) fermentable in [[mead]].

==Honey as a fermentable sugar==
Honey is about 95% fermentable sugar, and will be slightly more fermentable than an equivalent wieght of malt extract. It does not contribute significantly to the [[body]] of the beer, so replacing an amount of extract with honey will lighten the beer accordingly.

==Brewing with honey==
Honey contributes flavors to the beer if used as 5-10% or more of the fermentable sugar in the wort. If honey contributes more than 30% of the fermentable sugars to a beer, it is [[braggot]], not beer.

Boiling destroys or alters many of the flavoring compounds in honey, so if it is added to the boil, the flavors will be subtle. Honey can be pasteurized instead of boiled, retaining more of the flavor profile in the finished beer. Raw honey should never be added to a fermentation due to high risk of bacterial infection and loss of the batch.

==Priming with honey==
Honey can be used for priming sugar in bottle conditioning. A typical 5 gallon batch will use 6-10 ounces of honey, or 1/2 cup to 7/8 cup. Honey used for priming should be boiled or pasteurized.

==See Also==
* [[Ingredients]]
* [[Mead]]
* [[Braggot]]

[[Category:Ingredients]]

User:Jomebrew

2011-09-21T22:42:33Z

Jomebrew: Protected "User:Jomebrew": Excessive vandalism ([edit=sysop] (indefinite) [move=sysop] (indefinite)) [cascading]

Head

2011-08-29T15:06:07Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by Dozzzza (talk) to last revision by BeerSmith

* The term '''Head''' or '''Foam''' refers to the bubbly layer of foam at the top of a freshly poured beer. Foam is formed by rising carbon dioxide bubbles in the beer that combine with substances on the surface of the beer to produce tiny bubbles. [[Head Retention]] or the long term stability of the foam is an important objective for many beer styles.

==See Also==
[[Head Retention]]

[[Category:Glossary]]

Honey

2011-08-29T15:05:43Z

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by Dozzzza (talk) to last revision by BrewWiki

User:Jomebrew

2011-07-22T14:34:32Z

Jomebrew: Blanked the page